Wi

■ifeA*:

*^:,»...SSi

|«ffl

mh 11^

«|t''.^^'<„ M-

H

#^-^^W:,-^^'^'g^

P- !

p.. i^^

^"U: )

m M.

M ■ _ fe

pf 15^;/: t^

..•>/)B

i : . «

ff .fe M.B-

♦. r

,« J, i if,. "*

■J *

■'^i .'^.

^^ m m

B 1^ i.

I

JHHOKh

*^''i?

"m

i

liifi t^Fi, k»^

1^; 1^.. U, i4> k .V.

• ■'

NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES

3 3433 08178396 5

ma:-

. w %

;'^''

5<v^

THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY REFERENCE DEPARTMENT

This book is under no circumstances to be taken from the Building

vj--'^ i

ntj

v.

■'■Wi'j-^''

, i^r.vfr^rn^'Trr"^.^'-

K

,v

:-«-

m.wiuMis

O^v.

A

\o

y^

Kw/Ms^r.

St. Elmo Pass, between W inthrop Glacier and Interglacier. View from North side.

'THE MOUNTALN THAT WAS GOD'"

Illustrated with maps and 140 views of .Mt. Rainier (Tacoma). including eight three-color half-tones.

In stout boards, with colored half-tone view of the Mountain and

North Mowich Glacier in a storm, on front cover - - $1.00 net

By mail, 12 cents extra

In hea\*y paper co\ ers, with poster design of the .Mountain in colors

and gilt, embossed ..--..... $().50 net By mail, 7 cents extra

Published by JOHN H. WILLl.AMS, - - T.ACO.M A, WASHINGTON.

Sunrise above the clouds, seen from Camp Curtis, on the \\ edge. «ilh \\ hite Glacier below.

3

J

i

C «

a

3

T

HE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS

''(jOD" ^ I5H1N(^ A LI I !IJ{ liOOK

Ai^oir riii: (iKi:\r im:\k which im:

INDIANS CALLliD "TACOM A" lU I W MICH IS OFFICIALLY NAMED "KAINIi:R" > .<

BY

JOHN H. WILLIAMS

O, rarest miracle of mountain heights,

Thou hast the sky for thy imperial dome,

And dwell'st amon}i the stars all days and nijfhts.

In the far heavens famiiiarls at home.

— William llillis N\\nn: "Mt. Tacoma; an Apotheosis.

TACOMA

Published by the .Author 1910

573527

Narada Falls, 175 teet, with Eagle Peak. It has been proposed to change the name

to Cushnian Falls, in recognition of the late F. W. Cushman's work in

Congress for the Government Road, which passes near the falls.

Copyright, 1910 by John H. Williams

i^i

On [lie suminll of l^aiilc Rock in wiiilcr. l{o\ s limkiiii; over un HlKI-frmt piccipice.

FOHKWOKI)

Kvory summer there is demand for illustrated literature describing the mount ain variously called "Rainier" or "Tacoma." Hitherto, we have had only small collections of pictures, wiilmut text, and confined to the familiar south and southwest sides.

The little book which I now offer aims to show the grandest and most accessible of our extinct volcanoes from all points of view. Like the glacial rivers, its text will be found a narrow stream flowing swiftly amidst great mountain scenery. Its abundant illustrations cover not only the giants' fairyland south of the peak, but also the equally stupendous scones that await the adventurer who penetrates the harder trails and climbs the greater glaciers of the north and east slopes. No book will ever be large enough to tell the whole story. That must be learned by summers of severe though profitable toil.

The heroic features which the ice-streams have carved upon the face of Mount "Big Snow." with their fascinating "parks" and fiower-fields. their silvery cascades and gray glacial torrents, are every year becoming more friendly to visitors. Each summer sees more and better trails. The capital highway built by Pierce County through the Nisqually valley to the Forest Reserve and the road made by the government engineers up to the Nisqually glacier and the Paradise country have already opened a wonderland to the autoni()l)ilist. Roth these roads, however, should be widened: and the government road should, by all means, be continued around the Mountain, crossing the canyons below each glacier, and winding up to the glorious table-lands above. It will be a great day for the lover of the mountains when Congress, awakening to the value of the whole Park, shall make it easy to know all the charm and insi)iration of this priceless national playground.

The title adopted for the book has reference, of course, to the Indian nature worship, of which something is said in the opening chapter. Both the title and a small part of the matter are reprinted from an article which I contributed last year to the New York Evening Post. Attention is called to the tangle in the names of glaciers and the need of a definitive nomenclature. As to the name of the Mountain itself, that famous bone of contention between two cities, I greatly prefer "Tacoma," one of the several authentic forms of the Indian name used by different tribes; but I believe that "Tahoma." proposed by the Rotary Club of Seattle, would be a justifiable compromise, and satisfy nearly everybody. Its adoi)tion would free our national map from one more of its meaningless names — the name, in this case, of an undistinguished foreign naval officer whose only connection with our history is the fact that he fought against us

8

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

during the American Revolution. Incidentally, it would also free me from the need of an apology for using the hybrid "Rainier- Tacoma"!

The purpose of the book, however, is descriptive rather than controversial. Its plan leaves most of the storV to the illustrations, with their explanatory "underlines." I have cut down the text in order to make room for the largest possible number of pic- tures. In selecting these, several thousand negatives and photographs have been exam- ined. The ones used here include many noteworthy views never before shown in any pub- lication— pictures that tell a great story. Conditions met by every photographer of ice scenes make it difficult, sometimes, to obtain perfect copy for the engraver. The collection as a whole, however, is as representative as can be made till some of the glaciers shall have been more fully explored. Owing to the disproportion of cuts to text, it has not always been possible to follow a logical order in placing the illustrations: but the full descriptions given, together with the map, will aid the reader to form a clear idea of the geography of the National Park and the characteristic aspects of the peak. I shall be grateful for correction of any errors, and for information as to photo- graphs that may add to the value of future editions.

Many of the illustrations show wide reaches of wonderful country, and their details may well be studied with a reading glass.

I am much indebted to the librarians and their courteous assistants at the Seattle and Tacoma public libraries; also to Prof. Flett for his interesting account of the flora of the National Park; to Mr. Eugene Ricksecker, of the United States Engineer Corps, for permission to reproduce his new map of the Park, now printed for the first time; and, most of all, to the photographers, both professional and amateur. In the table of illustrations, pages 11 to 13, credit is given the maker of each photograph.

The book is sent out in the hope of promoting a wider knowledge of our country's noblest landmark. May it lead many of its readers to delightful days of recreation and adventure!

Tacoma. .lune 1, 1910. J. H. W.

The Mountain from Puyallnp River, near Tacoma.

\\ Iliu- (;iacl(.-i aiul link- I .ilmiiKi. \mI h ImisIi iJi tiul ol i lie I'lilfidsh in Jrslanci-.

("ONTFA'I'S

I. .Mi>\iin "Bis Snow" iiiul Indian 'riadiiiDii .

II. Tlie National i'ark and How to Hfacli it

111. The Story of tin- .Mi.uiuain

I\'. Tlic i'^lora (if the .Mountain Slopes. 1)\ I'roT. ,). 15. Flett

\', Tlir Clinihcrs

Page 15

37

68

90

1(12

Liiii> 1 igiii, ilu'j, uy A. ±1. wail' Basaltic Columns, part of "the Colonnade" on south side of South Mowich Glacier. These curious six-sided columns of volcanic rock, about KSfl feel high, are similar to those bordering the Cowlitz Glacier.

Crevasses in Stevens Glacier, with Cowlitz Glacier and the Cowlitz Park country beyond.

View from above Sluiskin Falls, at ^ p. in.

ILLUSTRATIONS

Titles marked * indicate engravings made from coi).vrighted photograplis. See notice under the illustration.

THREE-COLOR H.ALP- TONES Title. Photographer. Page.

Spanaway Lake, with Reflection of the Mountain A. H. Barnes. Frontispiece

View from Electron, Showing West Side of the Mountain Asahel Curtis. 19

View Northward from Top of Pinnacle Peak Dr. F. A. Scott. 46

Looking Northeast from Slope of Pinnacle Peak Dr. F. A. Scott. 47

* Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier A. H. Barnes. 57

* Spray Park from Fay Peak W. P. Romans. 76

Crevasse in Carbon Glacier Asahel Curtis. 85

North Mowich Glacier and the Mountain in a Storm George V. Caesar. 95

ONE -COLOR HALF TONES

St. Elmo Pass A. \V. Archer. 2

Sunrise above the Clouds, at Camp Curtis Asahel Curtis. 2

Narada Falls and Eagle Peak A. H. B.irnes. 6

On the Summit of Eagle Rock in Winter George V. Caesar. 7

The Mountain from Puyallup River B. L. Aldrich. Jr. 8

White Glacier and Little Tahoma Asahel Curtis. 9

* Basaltic Columns near end of South Mowich Glacier A. H. Waite. 9

Crevasses in Stevens Glacier, with Cowlitz Glacier Beyond Charles Bedford. 10

View from alx)ve Sluiskin Falls, 3 p. m Mrs. H. A. Towne. 11

From above Sluiskin Falls, 4 ]). m.. same day Mrs. H. A. Towne. 13

* The Mountain from Lake Washington Romans Photographic Co. 14

* Lost to the World Asahel Curtis. 15

Snow Slopes, Upper Moraine Park George V. Caesar. 15

Iron and Copper Mountains in Indian Henry's .\. G. Bowles, .Ir. 16

Ice Terraces, South Tahoma Glacier Rodney L. Glisan. 16

* North Peak and South Mowich Glacier in Storm A. H. Waite. 17

■Ghost Trees" Mrs. H. A. Towne. 18

Mountain Goat A. H. Barnes. 1 8

Waterfall over Island of Rock, Stevens Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott. 21

View South from Cowlitz Glacier to Mt. Adams Charles Bedford. 22

Storm King Peak and Mineral Lake A. H. Barnes. 23

Mineral Lake and the Mountain A. H. Denman. 23

* Snow Lake in Indian Henry's A. H. Barnes. 24

Cowlitz Glacier, Crevasses Charles Bedford. 25

Paradise River, below its Glacier A. H. Barnes. 26

22 THE MOUXTAIX THAT WAS "GOD'

26

Steam Caves in one of the Craters Asahel Curtis.

West Side of Summit from Tahoma Fork A. H. Barnes.

View of the Mountain from Beljica Peak A. H. Barnes. 28

Great Rock on Ridge between North and South Tahoma Glaciers. . .Dr. F. A. Scott. 29

Wind swept Trees on North Side . George V. Caesar. 30

Exploring an Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott. 30

Peak Success from Indian Henry's ^Ii'S. H. A. Towne. 31

Mt. St. Helens from Indian Henry's A. H. Barnes. 32

The Mountain from Top of Cascades S. C. Smith. 33

Ptarmigan, the Grouse of the Ice Fields Asahel Curtis. 34

Climbing the Ice Terraces of Winthrop Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott. 34

Portion of Spray Park George V. Caesar. 35

Perilous Position on Crevasse in Cowlitz Glacier Charles Bedford. 36

On Pierce Coimty Road, Passing Ohop Valley S. C. Lancaster. 37

Cowlitz Chimneys S. C. Smith. 37

* Old Road near Spanaway A. H. Barnes. 38

Mystic Lake and Sluiskin Mountains Asahel Curtis. 38

Automobile Partv above Nisqually Canyon. Pierce County Road . . . Asahel Curtis. 39

Prof. O. D. Allen's Cottage Dr. F. A. Scott. 39

One Mile of Carbon Glacier A. H. Denman. 40

Camp on St. Elmo Pass. North Side of the Wedge Asahel Curtis. 40

Little Mashell Falls, near Eatonville A. H. Barnes. 41

Old Stage Road to Longmire Springs A. H. Barnes. 42

Government Road in the Forest Reserve S. C. Lancaster. 43

Ingraham Glacier Flowing Into Cowlitz Glacier Asahel Curtis. 43

* On the Summit, Showing Columbia's Crest Asahel Curtis. 44

Party Leaving the National Park Inn for Paradise Park Linkletter Photo Co. 44

On the Government Road a Mile Above Longmire's . Linkletter Photo Co. 49

Glacier Table, on Winthrop Glacier Asahel Curtis. 49

Snout of Nisqually Glacier Linkletter Photo Co. 50

Washington Torrents A. H. Barnes. 50

Coming Around Frying - Pan Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott. 51

Mt. Adams, seen from the Indian Henry Trail . A. H. Barnes. 51

Indian Henry's Hunting Ground from South Tahoma Glacier A. H. Denman. 52

* Southwest Side of Mountain, seen from Indan Henry's A. H. Barnes. 53

Junction of North and South Tahoma Glaciers A. H. Denman. 54

Winthrop Glacier and St. Elmo Pass Asahel Curtis. 54

Portion of Paradise Valley and Tatoosh Range A. H. Barnes. 55

Eastern Part of Tatoosh Range . A. H. Barnes. 55

Ice Bridge. Stevens Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott. 56

Tug of War Asahel Curtis. 56

Reese's Camp . C. E. Cutter. 59

Climbing Paradise Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott. 59

Nisqually Glacier, from Top of Gibraltar Rock Asahel Curtis. 60

Sluiskin Falls, below Paradise Glacier A. H. Barnes. 61

Looking across Winthrop Glacier to Steamboat Prow Asahel Curtis. 61

Fairy Falls, in Goat Lick Basin A. H. Barnes. 62

* Checkerboard Crevasse, Cowlitz Glacier S. C. Smith. 63

Paradise Valley and Tatoosh :Mountains A. H. Barnes. 64

Stevens Canyon, with Mt. Adams in Distance A. H. Barnes. 65

Mountain Climbers on St. Elmo Pass A. W. Archer. 66

Passing a big Crevasse on Interglacier Asahel Curtis. 67

The Mountaineers on Winthrop Glacier Asahel Curtis. 68

Mountaineers on Carbon Glacier Asahel Curtis. 68

* Nisqually Glacier, with Its Sources . A. H. Barnes. 69

Looking North from Cowlitz Chimneys over Cowlitz Glacier .... Charles Bedford. 70

Measuring the Ice Flow, Nisqually Glacier Asahel Curtis. 71

One of the Modern Craters Asahel Curtis. 72-73

Climbing the Cowlitz Cleaver . Asahel Curtis. 72

Lunching in a Crevasse Asahel Curtis. 73

Ice - bound Lake, Cowlitz Park S. C. Smith. 74

Crevasses in Cowlitz Glacier S. C. Smith. 74

Mazamas Rounding Gibraltar . Rodney L. Glisan. 77

Climbing the "Chute." West Side of Gibraltar Asahel Curtis. 78

View of the Summit from Top of Gibraltar A. H. Waite. 79

ii.i.rsTi; v'l'ioxs

13

LooUiiiii up While (Jhicii-r lo Liiilc TaliDUia I>r. F. A. Scott. 80

North Peak, or ••Liberty Caii" . A. \V. Arch.-r. 81

t'lossins a Precii)itous Slope, White Glacier A. W. Archer. 82

Hydro - Electric Plant at Electron 83

nuildins Taconia's .\e\v Power Phiiil on the Xisriually (3) George V. Caesar. 84

Adniiial Peter Rainier 87

Echo Rock, on West Hraiicii of Carbon ('.lacier A. W. .Archer. 87

EasL Side of the .Mountain from Suiniuer Land I. H. Fleit. 88

View North from Mt. Ruth, looking over Grand Park J. 13. Flett. 89

* Looking over .Moraine Park to Carbon Glacier .\sahel Curtis. 90

Anemones .Miss .Jessie Kershaw. 90

.\ 1 l-foot Fir. near .Mineral Lake \. 11. Harnes. 91

Sunrise in Indian Henry's I'ark A. 11. Harnes. 92

.\n F]minent Scientist Practices the Simple Life 93

Floral Carpet in Indian ll(niry"s A. H. Barnes. 93

.Mountain .Asters A. H. Barnes. 94

.\lpine Hendock and .Meiiiiiaiii Lilies Mrs. H. A. Towire. 94

Studying the Phlo.\ J. B. Flett. 97

Squaw Grass or .Mountain Lily .Miss Jessie Kershaw. 97

Mosses and Ferns Charles Bedford. 98

.Avalanche Lilies Asahel Curtis. 99

* Moraine Park. Sluiskin .Mountains and Moraine Lake .Asahel Curiis. ion

Canada Dogwood -Miss .Jessie Kershaw. KM)

The .Mountain from Fox Island Charles Bedford. 101

Glacial Debris. Winthro)) Glacier Asahel Curtis. 102

Paradise Valley, with South - Side Route to the Summit .Asahel Curiis. 102

* Oldest and Youngest Climbers, Gen. Stevens and Jesse McRae .... C. E. Cutter. 103 P. B. Van Trumi) 103

* Amphitheater of Carbon Glacier Asahel Curtis. 104

* Avalanche Falling on Willis Wall.. Photo, Lee Bronson: Copyright, P. V. Caesar. 10.5 East Side of .Mountain, with Route to Summit over While Glacier.. .Asahel Curtis. 106

Building Trail on Carbon Glacier .Moraine .Asahel Curtis. 106

.Mountaineers' Camp in .Moraine Park, overlooking Carbon Glacier. .Asahel Curtis. 107

Ice Pinnacles, or Serracs, on Carbon Glacier . A. W. Archer. 107

Ijooking Southeast from Mt. Rose, above Eunice Lake George V. Caesar. 108

Ix)oking Southwest from .Mt. Rose George V. Caesar. 109

* S])ray Falls Asahel Curtis. 110

* The .Mountain from (^reen River Hot Springs C. E. Cutter. 1 1 1

Returning from the Summit Asahel Curtis. 1 1 1

MAPS

Pug(>t Sotind Country and Roads to the :\lountain Inside of Back Cover

Rainier .National Park Inside of Back Cover

From above Sluiskin Falls, at 4 p. m., showing (he approach of a storm. Taken same day as preceding view.

o

c.

o

01

c d

c >.

a o

Cupyright, 190'J, by Asu.liel Curtis

Lost to the WDrld. 7.5tH( Icct abo\c scu level.

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS ''GOD."

MOrXT '-HIG SNOAV AND INDIAN TRADITION.

Age cannot wiihtT hw. nor custom stale Her infinite variety. — Antony and Cleopatra.

THE great inountain fascinates u.s by its diversity. It is ;ni itispirnt i(tii ;m<l \'t't ;i ridillr In all wlu) are tirawii to the luxslerious (ti- who love the sublime. Every view which the breakinu' clouds vouchsafe to us is a surprise. It lun-er becomes eniiitiHUiplace. sjivc to llic ('(uiiimni- ]dace.

< )](] VirgiTs ^ilie at iiiaidciiid s better half — "varium ct mutabilc semper feinina" - iniuht h;ivc been written of this licklc shape of mvk and ice and \<ip()r. One tries vainly, year after year, to define it in his own mind. The daily. honrl\' clumi^c of distance, size and aspect. tri(d<s which the Indinn's iikuiiiI ;i in liimI idays with the puny creatures swarm- ing more ami more about his foot, his days of frank' neiu]d)orliness. his swift transfornijit ions from smiles to anger, his fits of suUenness and with-

i";^^

if^' ■-

-A

iV i-^

/ *'.'^.

>>^%5W

\ r

Crossing a Snou Slope, upper part of .Moraine Park.

16

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

Iron and Copper Mountains (right) in Indian Henry's. The top of Pyramid Peak shows in the saddle beyond, below Peak Success.

drawal. all baffle study. Even though we live at it.s base, it is impossible to say we know the mountain, so various are the spells the sun casts over this huge dome which it is slowly chiseling away with its tools of ice, and which, in coming centuries, it will level with the plain.

We are lovers of the water as well as the hills, out here in this Northwestern corner of the Republic. We spend many days — and should spend more — in cruising among the hidden bays and park-like islands which make Puget Sound the most interesting body of water in America. We grow a bit boastful about the lakes that cluster around our cities. Nowhere better than from sea level, or from the lakes raised but little above it. does one realize the bulk, the domi- nance, and yet the grace, of this noble peak. Its impres- s i V eness, indeed, arises in part from the fact that it is one of the few great volcanic m 0 u ntains whose entire height ma>' be seen from tide level. Many of us can recall views of it from Lake Wash- ington at Seattle, or from American

Ice Terraces on South Tahonia Glacier. These vast steps are one ot the forniitions seen > [)clU(l\\ <l \ UdK(

when a glacier moves down a steep and irregular slope. at i a C O HI a , 01'

\ ^ ^ ^

a. S

.1

.'.■.^^-:-^■JH ■;»!«: f... v:i>v

= 2

I- JL

18

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

from the Sound, which will always haunt the memory.

Early one evening, last summer. I went with a friend to Point De- fiance, Tacoma's fine park at the end of the promontory on which the city is built. We drank in re- freshment from that scene of broad channels and evergreen shores. "We watched the gathering colors in the West, over the Olympics. As sunset approached, we rowed far out Northward into the Sound. The Western sky became a conflagra- tion. Twilight settled upon the bay. The lights of the distant town came out, one by one, and those of the big smelter, near by. became brilliant. Xo Turner ever dreamed so glorious a picture of sunlight and shade. But we were held by one vision.

Yonder, in the Southeast, tower- ing above the lower shadows of har- bor and hills, rose a vast pyramid of soft flame. The setting sun had thrown a mantle of rose pink over the ice of the glaciers and the great cleavers of rock which buttress the mighty dome. The rounded summit

Mountain Goat, an accidental snap-shot at a distance ot 100 feet.

"Ghost Trees." These white stalks, seen in Indian Henry's and Paradise Valley, tell of fires set by careless visitors.

was warm with beautiful orange light. Soon the colors upon its slope changed to deeper reds, and then to amethyst, and violet, and pearl gray. The sun-forsaken ranges below fell away to dark neutral tints. But the fires upon the crest burned on, deepening from gold to burnished copper, a colossal beacon flaming liigh against the sunset purple of the Eastern skies. Finally, even this great light paled to a ghostly white, as the supporting foundation of mountain ridges dropped into the darkness of the long Northern twilight, until the snowy summit seemed no longer a part of earth, but

a

3

-^•^ X.

/

MUL'NT 'lUG SXOW" AND INDIAN IliMHTlON

21

a veil (if iiii<-;iiiii.\- mist, (•.•luulit up l)y the winds rrom lln' I'.M-ilic jukI lld.ilin- \':iv above tlir lil.ii-k sl<y-liiif oT ihc solid ( ";is<'ii<ii's. ih.il

* * * licavon-sustainiiiK hulwaiK. ir;ii<'(l Between thr East and West.

And when even this ai)i)iii"iti(»n li.id t'adeil. aii<l ilir .Muimiaiii appeared oidy as a (lini hulk silhouctliMl upon the niuht. then canic llir mirarlc. ( Icadually. the East, licyoiui the j^rcat hills, showed a faitit liLilil. 'I'ln- prolilc o|' the pi'ak beeamc iiioi'c dctinite. With no other wai'iiiiiL;-. sudd(id\ IVom iK suiiiniii ihc fnll iiiooii shot t'ortli. liULic majestic and <^i-aeioiis. lloodiiiLi the hiwei- world with hriuht iiess. Clouds and mounlain I'auij^es alike shoin' with its •rlory. lint the great peak h»omed hla(d<ei- and moi-e sidlen. ()nly. on its head, the wide crown ot snow gleamed while under the eold rays of the moon.

Xo wonder that this mouidain (d' chan<;in^' moods. o\ crtoppinLj every othei- eminence in the Northwest, answered tlu' i(h'a of (iod io the simple. imai:ina1 ive mind of the In- dians who hunted in the forest on its slopes or fi s h e d in the waters that ebbed and tlowed at its has e. Primitive peoples in every land have deified superlative mani- festations of na- ture — the sin I. t h e wind, the great rivers ami w ate rfalls, the high mountains. By all the tribes within sight of its snmmii. this pre- eminent peak, called by them Taeoma. Tahoma or Tacob, as wlio should say "The Great Snow, "was deemed a power to be feared atid conciliated. Even when the mission- aries taught them ^

a better taith, they Waterfall over IslanJ of rock, middle of Stevens Glacier. Note the Ice Wall abovi

MOINI- I'.K; S.\()\V and INDIAN 'IK A 1 HIION

23

moiirilniii ill siipcr- stiliotis reverence —

,111 ;i\\c lli;il still li;is

power t(» silciici' their ' "rivilizeil '" ;iii(l \ery Ulll'Olll.llll ie cIcSCI'IkI- .•II I Is.

The I'li-jvl Sduiid ti"ibes. wilti llie \ ak- iiiijis, Kiickitjits ;iii(l

111 hei's li\iliL;- just !)('-

>()ii(| the Cascades, h;i(l sultst;iiiti;ill\- the s a in e lanyuaye and heliefs. thouLih diifer- ini;- ill physicil lypo. East oJ' tile rnime. they lived by the c h ii s e. They were great horsemen and famous I'uiniers, a breed of litlu

Ntiiicral l.akc and the MoiiiUain.

Storm King I'cak and Mineral l.akc, viewed (roni near Mineral Lake Inn.

iipstandinu'. handsome nn'ii. Here on tlie ('nast wei-e the "DifTfjer" 1 lilies, who subsisted chiefly by s p e a r i II l: salmon and diii'trine: chniis. Their stooped fi«iiires. fhit faces, downcast eyes mid h>w mentality re- flected the life they led. Con- irasiiiiL: their lunivy bodies

wilh llleir feeble IcLiS. wllicll

urew shorler with disuse, a Tacunia liniiiorisl last sum- mer uravely proved to a party of Engli.sh visitors that in a few years more, had not (he white man seized their tisliiiii: .i:r( Minds, the Siwashes would have had no legs at all. Stolid as he .seemed to the whites, the Indian of the Sound was not without his touch of poetry. lie had that imauinative curiosity which marked the native American

o

U

J i

■jr.

u

i

-3 u

T3

o

MOUNT lUG SXOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION

25

Cowlitz Glacier, Crevasses caused by flexure in its bed

everywhere. Tic was ever peering: into the causes of thiiitrs. and seeing the supernatural in tlic world around him. *

To the 'jreat Snow Mountain the Indians made t're(iuent pilgrimages, for they thought this king of the primeval wild a divinity to be reckoned with. They dreaded its anger, seen in the storms about its head, the thunder of its avalanches, and tlic volcanic flashes of wliich their traditions told. They courted its favoi-. syndjolized in the wild flowers that bloomed on its slope, and the tall grass that fed the mowich, or deer.

As tlu\v ascendc(l the v;isl i-idgcs. the grandeur about them spoke of the

* Among those who have studied the Puget Sound Indians most synipatheticaUy is the Rev. Mr. Hylebos of Tacoma. He came to the Northwest in 1870, when the Federal census gave the sawmill hamlet of Tacoma a white population of seventy-three, and while the Indians hereabout numbered thousands. In those days, says Father Hylebos, the Tacoma tideflats, now filled in for mills and railway terminals, were covered each autumn with the canoes of Indians, spearing salmon for their winter's supply. It was no uncommon thing to see at one time on Commencement Bay 600 boats, 1,800 fishermen. This veteran worker among the Siwashes (French, sauvages) first told me the myths that hallowed the mountain for every native, and the true meaning of the beautiful Indian word "Tacoma." He knew well all the leaders of the generation before the railways: Sluiskin, the Klickitat chief who guided Stevens and Van Trump up to the snow line when they made the first ascent in 1870; Stanup. chief of the Puyallups; Kiskax. head of the Cowlitz tribe; Angeline, the famous daughter of Chief Seattle, godfather of the city of that name, and many others.

IG

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

m o u 11 tain god. There w e r e groves of trees he must have plant- ed, so 0 r d e r 1 y were they set out. The lakes of the loft y V a 1 leys see m e d calmer than those on the ])rairies b e 1 o av. the f 0 1 i a g c bright er. The song of the waterfalls h e r e was sweeter than the music of the tamahna was men , their Indian sor- cerers. The many small meadows close to the snow - line, c a r-

peted in deepest green and spread with flowers, were the gardens of the divinity, tended by his superhuman agents. Xo wood in ancient Greece was ever peopled by hamadryads so real as the little gods whom the Indian saw in the forests watered bv streams from Tacoma's glaciers.

Paradise River, below its Glacier, with Little Tahonia in distance.

y

fi

# .^v ^■

Steam Caves in one ot the Craters. The residual heat of the evtinct \'olcano canses steam and Sases to escape from vents in the rims of the two small Craters. Alpinists often spend a night in the (;a\es thns formed in the Snow.

West Side ot ihe Sunimit. seen troin Tahoma Fork of the Nisgually. Note the whilenesslof the GlaciallWater

o

73

MOUNT -IMC SNOW" AXD INDIAN lii A I HIK )N

Great Rock on the Ridfte separating the North and South Tahoma Glaciers, with Tahoina I*ork of the Nisgually

se\eral miles bclou. Seen ridht of center on page 2H.

Countless snows had fallen since the mountain ^od created and hcautified this home of his, when one day he grew angry, and in his w i-ath showed terrible tongues of fire. Thus he ignited an immense tir forest on ihc south side of the peak. When his anger subsided, the flames passed, and the land they left bare became covered with blue grass and wild flowers — a great sunny country where, befoi-e, the dark forest had been. Borrowing a word from llic Frcndi coureurs des bois who came with the Hudson's Bay Company, the later Indians sometimes called this region "the Big Brule"; and to this day some Americans call it the same. l'>ut tor the Big Brule the Indians had. from ancient times, another name, connected with their ideas of religion. It was their Saghalie Illahe, the "Land of Peace," Heaven. Our name, "Paradise Valley," given to the beautiful open vale on the south slope of the mountain, is an English equivalent.

Here Avas the same bar to violence which religion has erected in many lands. The Hebrews had their "Cities of Refuge." The pagan ancients made every altar an asylum. ^Mediaeval Christianity constituted all its churches sanctuaries. Thus, in lawless ages, the hand of vengeance was stayed, and the weak were protected.

30

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS -GOD-

J*-*--.

Wind Swept Trees on North Side, the last below the line of Eternal Snow

So. too. the Indian trad ition ordained this liomc of rest and refngc. Indian cus- tom was an eye for an (\v('. Itut on gain- ing this m 0 u n tain liaven the pursued was safe from his pursuer, the slayer might not be touched l»y his victim's kin- d r e d. W hen he crossed its border, the warrior laid down

his arms. Criminals and cowards, too, were often sent here by the chiefs to do penance.

The mountain divinity, with his under-gods, figures in much of the Siwash folk-lore, and the "Land of Peace" is often heard of. It is through such typical Indian legends as that of the Greedy Hiaqua Hunter that we learn how large a place the great Mountain filled in the thought of the aboriginees.

This myth also explains why an Indian could never be persuaded to make the ascent, farther than the snow line. Even so shrewd and intelligent a Siwash as Sluis- kin. with all his keenness for ' ' Boston chika - min," the white man's money, re- fused to accom- pany Stevens and Van Trump, in 1870; and indeed gave them up as doomed when they defied the M 0 u n t a i n ' s wrath and start- ed for the sum- mit in spite of liis warnings.

The hero of the Hiaqua Myth ' ^'^

IS the Indian Rip Exploring an ice Ca\e. Paradise Glacier.

\'ieu i>f IV-.iU Success and West side nf the Mountain from Indian Henr>'s. "ith reHection.

1fciS*!Wrtfti^*^i *'

Rounded Cone of Mt. St. Helens, seen from Indian Henry's, 50 miles aw

ay.

MOUNT iUG SNOW AND INDIAN IKAhl IION

33

\';. I. Wiiikl.'. • Crazy for liiaqua,

(ir slirll iiiiiiiey, ;iMil |i(i-sua(lod by

Moosinoos,!!"' <*lk <li\iiiil y. liis own f olcMi. that on top of Ihc mountain he w (t n I (I find tri'cat .st()i-(j of it, he (•liiiil)od to the sninniit. Here he riiiiMil three ])\ir rocks, one of wliieli looked like li i s f r i e n <] ! y Moosnioos. Uv(,'r- turninfr this after lonjr difr^'ing, he uncovered many sti-inL:s n|' liiaqna — enoncrh to make him the richest

iif liicll. liul lit'

meanly seized it all. leaving no 1 hank-ofl'erinf; to tlie tamahnawas powers. There- upon the whole earth shook with a mighty convul- sion, and the Mountain shot forth terrible fires and poured streams of water (lava?) down its sides.

Panic-stricken at the results of his greed, the man 1hi-ew down his load of treasure to propitiate the angry deity; and then fell on the ground and entered the land of sleep. Long, long after, he aAvoke to find himself far from the summit, in a pleasant country of beautiful meadows, carpeted with flowers, and musical with the song of birds. He had grown very old. with snow-white hair falling to his shoulders. Recognizing the scene about him as Saghalie Illahe, he sought his old tent. It was where he had left it. and there, too, was his "klootchman," or wife, grown old. like himself. Back they went to their home on the bank of the Cowlitz, where they spent the rest of their days in great honor. For his tribesmen recognized that the aged Indian's heart had

The Muuiitain, seen from top of the Cascades, with party startiniS due West

for Paradise Valley.

* See Prof. W. D. Lyman's papers on the Indian legon<is. in "Mazama," Vol. 2, and "The Mountaineer," Vol. 2; also Winthrop's "Canoe and Saddle."

o4

THE MOrXTAlX THAT WAS -GOD"

V

Ptarmigan, the Grouse of the ice-fields. Unlike its neighbor, the Mountain Goat,

this bird is tame, and may sometimes be caught by hand. In winter,

its plumage turns from brown to white.

crude but very positive mind. Ever by his side the Power that dwelt on Tacoma. protecting and aiding to destruction. Knowing nothing of true worship, genee could imagine God only in things either the most terrifying; and the more we know the Mountain, the understand why he deemed the majestic peak a factor infinite force that could, at will, bless or destroy.

been m a r v e 1 ously softened and his mind enriched by his ex- p e r i e n c e upon the mountain. Thus he became the most re- spected of all the tamahnawas men of his time.

Such legends show the Northwestern In- dian, like savages everywhere, mingling his conception of Deity with his ideas of the evil one. Sym- bolism pervaded his

old Siwash felt the him, or leading him his primitive intelli- beautiful or the most more easily we shall

of his destinv — an

c^ •»

y

i

(Climbing the Ice Terraces of \\ inthrop Glacier.

Portion of Spras Park, uitli North Side view o( the Mountain, showing Observation Rock and Timber Line.

Klevation of (Camera. 7.(HKI feel.

A perilous position on the edge of a great Crevasse. Cowlitz Glacier, near end of Cathedral Rocks.

LancasU f

On Pierce County's splendid scenic roiul l<> llu- M(niiil;iiii. rasslnfi Oliop X'ullcy.

II.

THE NATIONAL PARK AND HOW To UKMW IT.

There are plenty of higher mountains, but it is the decided isolation — the absolute standing alone in lull majesty of its own mightiness — that forms the attraction of Rainier. * * * It is no squatting giant, ])erched on the shoulders of other mountains. From Puget Sound, it is a sight for the gods, and one feels in the presence of the gods. — Paul Fountain: "The Seven Eaglets of the West" (London, 1905).

THE first explorers to climb the .Moiiiilniii. forty years ago. were compelled to make their way from Puyet Sound through the dense growths of one of the world 's greatest forests, over lofty ridges and deep canyons, and across per- ilous glacial torrents. The hardships of a journey to the timber line w-ere more form- idable than any difficulties to be encountered above it.

Even from the East 1lu' first railroad to the Coast had .just reached San I^'i'anciseo. Thence the travclrr eame north to the Sound l)y boat. The now busy cities of Seattle and Tacoma wci'e. one. an

ambitious village of 1.107 in- habitants; the other, a saw- mill, with seventy i)ersons liv- "-

ing around it. They were Cowlit? Chimneys, seen from basin below Frying- Pan Glacier.

38

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS -GOD"

On the way out from Tacoma the Automobilist sees many scenes like this Old Road near Spanaway Lake

frontier settlements, outposts of civilization ; but civilization paid little attention to them and their great Mountain, until the railways, some years later, began to connect them witli the big wm-ld of people and markets beyond the Rockies.

How dift'ereut the case today! Six transcontinental railroads noAv deliver their trains in the Puget Sound cities. These are : The Northern Pacific, which

Mystic Lake and Sluiskin Mmintains.

Till-: XA'I'IOXAI. I'AItK AM) HOW TO REACH IT

39

Automobile Party abo\c Nisgiuilly (Canyon, Pierce County Kciad lo ihc Moiintain.

was the first trunk line to reach the Sound; the Great Northern; the Chicago, lini-lino-ton & Quincy ; the Chicauo, Milwaukee & Pupret Sound; the Oregon & Wasiiington (Union Pacific), and the Canadian Pacific. A seventh, the North Coast, will soon be added.

Arriving in Seattle or Tacoma, the traveler has his choice of quick and en- joyable routes to the IMountain. He may go by automobile, leaving either city ill the iiioniing. After traveling one of the best and most inlcresting roads in llic country — the first and only otic in fact, to reach a Lilacicr — lie may take

luncheon at noon .six thousand feet higher, in Para- dise Park, clost> 1 () the line of eternal snow. Or he may go by Ihe comfortable trains of the Ta- coma Eastern ' Alilwaukee sys- tem j to A.shford. fifty-six miles iVom Tacoma. and then by au- tomobile stages over a perfect road to the Xa-

Prof. O. D. .\llen's Cottage, in the Forest Reserye, »yhere the former 'S ale professor

has for years studied the Flora o{ the Mountain. tlOnai 1 .ll'K I 1111

40

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

One mile of Carbon Glacier, where it has cut its way through the Mountains. Sluiskin Mountains on right. Mother Mountains on left.

at Longmire Springs (altitude 2,730 feet). Lunching there, he may then go on, afoot, by au- tomobile over the new government road, or on horse- back over a ro- mantic trail, to Paradise.

Either of these ways of reaching the Mountain will be a happy choice, for each of them leads through a coun- try of uncommon charm. Each of them, too, will carry the visitor up from the Sound to the great and beau-

tiful region on the southern slopes which includes the Nisqually canyon. Paradise valley, the Tatoosh range, the Stevens canyon, and Indian Henry's Hunting Ground.

%^-

Camp on St. Elmo Pass, North side of the Wedge, between Winthrop Glacier and Interglacier. Elevation, 9,000 feet.

Winthrop Glacier and the fork of White River which it feeds are seen in distance below. The man is

Maj. E. S. Ingraham, a veteran explorer of the Mountain, after whom Ingraham Glacier is named.

Little Mashcll Falls, near Katnn\lllc

Old Stage Road to Longmire Springs and the National Park Inn. showing the tall, clear trunks o( the giant Firs

THK XATIOXAl. I'.MCK AM. Il»)\\ TO UKACIl 11

43

I'll'- 111 liiiii st;i> .1 (l.iy or n in<»iitli. Il\riy iiiniiinii i,r th,. liiiif will III- cniw-tlcii witli <-iijuyiiiriit. Mr iii;iy i-.iiiti-nl lnms«'lf witli Miiiw li.illiii'^ his i-<iiii|i:iiiiiiiis ill iiiid-

>;illNllir|\ ,||ii| willi |.in|<ili._r (l(i\\ II tVidll Allil N'istjl (•■icV.-ltidll. li.lMKI fcrl I nil tllr lii'J \isi|l|;illy y-jjlciri- ill till' (•;ill\<ill wliicli it

li.is cut i'di- itself. ;iii(| ii|i its steep slopes to its iicvr iicld. Ill) till' siiiiiinit. < »r In- ni.'iy ixpliirc tliis wlidlr rcjidii ;it jrisiiri-. cliiiili- Iiil: h;ii-i| iiiiiiiiit:iiii tniils, olit ;i iiiiiiii' iiiiiLriiili- criii views, wnrkin'j up (i\er tlie (.rlacicrs. stutl.\ing tlieif crevasses, iee eaves and How.

lie limy even sc;ile tlle pealc. llll«lei- the safe le;i(|('rslii p lit' I'.x pc!'ii'iii-i'(| Liiii'les. lie may waiidei' at will uxei- the \ast platform li-ft by tlie pi'ehistorie explosinii wliicli tr\iii- eated the g;reat edtie. .hkI perhaps spend a iiiaht of seiisat imial iinvelly .ind diseom- lorl ' ill a big steam cave, iiiider the snow, inside a ei-atei-.

The south side has the advanta«re of otYer- iuiz th(^ wildest alpine sport in eondiination with a well-appointetl hnlel as a

Government Road in the Forest Reserve.

Ingraham Glacier eniplying into Cowlitz Glacier, over an 800-foot fall, one of ihe finest ice cascades on the Mountain.

44

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS 'GOD'

U f li

Copyright, 19u9. by Asahel Curtis On the Summit, showing Columbia's Crest, the great Mound of Snow that has, most curiously, formed on this wide wind-swept platform.

base of operations. Hence the majority of visitors to the ^Mountain know only that side. Everybody should know it. too ; but should also know that it is by no means the only side to see.

One may, of course, work around from the Nisqually canyon and Paradise. east or west, to the other glaciers and "parks." It is quite practicable, if not easy, to make the trip eastward from Camp of the Clouds in Paradise Park, crossing Paradise, Stevens and Cowlitz glaciers, and thus to reach the huge White glacier on the east side and Winthrop and Carbon glaciers on the north. Every summer sees more and more visitors making this wonderful journey.

Lea\ing the National l*ark Inn at l.ongmire Springs (elevation, 2,7.M) feel) tor the Summit.

View Northward from lop of Pinnacle Peak, 7,200 feet elevation, to Paradise Valley, Nisgually Glacier and

Gibraltar Roclc, eicKt miles away

•^i

^^ ^t

.A.I

>kUi«'*'

LooUins Northeast trom slope of Pinnacle Peak, across Paradise. Stevens. Cowiilz and Hryinit Pan Glacier*.

These two views form virtually a panorama

\ Tiv-

Till': XATIONAI. I'AKK AM) IIOW iO i;i:\(ll IT

49

lk^
	«, 1 ir r i4 1 JM
" "^ik .^Htek
	iEeKc^ ''C
^B^^^lka-'* ' ^L' ^^^^^^^tSBB^^^^fS^ k£.^^u^WL' ^^^tfPs 1^I^^^B^^M^9sir	-^n»ib^^.^
?t:&^»/V'*E^'
H^S

On the Government Road a mile above Longmire's.

Another way to roach the great north side, and perhaps the most practic- able way, especially for parties which carry camp e<|uipiiiriit. is l>y a Northern Pacific train over the Carbonado branch to Fairfax. This is on Carbon river, live miles from the nortliAvest corner of the National Park. Thence the traveler will go by horse or afoot, over a safe mountain trail, to Spray Park, the fascinat- ing region between Carbon and North jMowich glaciers. Standing here, on such an eminence as Fay Peak or Eagle Cliff, he may have views of the Mountain and its noblest features tliat will a thousand times repay the labor of attainment.

A visit to this less known side involves the ne- cessity of pack- ing an outfit. But arrangements for liorses and pack- ers are easily made, and each

\ ear an lliereaS- Glacier Xable on Winthiop Glacier. This phenomenon is due to the nultine of the

IlliX number of glacier, and the consequent lowering of its level save where sheltered by the

rock. Under the Sun's rays, these "tables" incline more and more parties make to the Somh. until they linally slide oir their pedestals.

^^«8MK^
' 1	^ ^ ^

50

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

Snout of NisquaUy Glacier, with Government Road and Bridge. The Ice Front here

is 500 to 600 feet high. Elevation of river flowing forth belou

is 4,000 feet above sea le\el.

S; p r a y Park

their headquar- ters. From there

they go soutli.

over the west

side glaciers, or

east, across the

Carbon an d

t h r o n g h the

great White

river country.

They camp on

the north side

of the Sluiskin

mountains, i n

Moraine Park.

and there have

ready access to

Carbon and

AVinthrop gla- ciers, with splendid views of the vast precipices that form the north face of the

Monntain. Thence they climb east and south over the AVinthrop and AVhite

glaciers. They visit the beautiful Grand Park and Summer Land, and either make the ascent to the summit from "the AA^edge," over the long ice slope of the AVhite glacier, or con- tinue around to the Par- adise country and Long- mire Springs.

The west side has been less visited than any other, but there is a trail from the North ]\I o w i c h to the Nis- quaUy, and from this adventurous explorers reach North and South Mowich and Puyallup glaciers. No one has .,, ,. ^ vet climbed the Moun-

>% ashington 1 orrents, a series of falls seen from the new Government

Road to Paradise. tain ovcr tliosG glaciers.

Till-: XATIOXAI. I'AKK AM) IIOW TO REACH IT

51

or t' r II HI I lie

luti'th siilc. A

view rfiiiii ;iiiy

(if tlif t i';iils will

ex pi ;i i II w liy .

The ji'reat fork

spines arc mkut

ju'ecipitoiis I li.iii

t'lsewlu'i'c. 1 li (•

l:I .Meiers inor-e

lii'dkt'ii : ntid 1 lie

siiniiiiit is friiiil-

ed on either side

l)y a huge para-

pcl of rock wliicli liiii-]s (Icfinticc ;it ;iiiyt hiiii; sliorl of an airslii|i. I )oiilit less. \\f

shall some day travel to Crater Pi'ak hy aeroplanes. Init until these vehicles an*

eipiipjied with runners for landing- and staiMini:' on ilu' siiow. \vc sliall do best

to plan our ascents from the soiitli or east side.

I have thus briefly point(Hl out the favorite routes followed in exploring the National I'ai'k. The time is fast ap[)roacliing: when it will he ;i 1 riily national

(^omint iinmiid F ryiii)'- run (Jiacicr.

Mt. Adams, seen from the Indian Henry Trail seems a replica of Rainicr-Tacoma. as viewed from the west.

The distance is about forty miles.

a c

o

c c

<U 3

2 -

c "o

O C

?- s

c u

•?!

a>

0*

a:5 o. .

o >.

-01 ^

O

o

o -s

3 O C/!

e : 1 -

Q. a a eu

■i O •n S c o

3 ■"

C .

C B = S.

X sr

r.H

■3 C S C

3 C

■3

3 C

54

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS 'GOD"

ffpii^

Junction of North and South Tahoma Glaciers. The main ice stream thus formed, seen in the foreground, feeds Tahoma

Fork'of the Nisqually river. The Northern part of North Tahoma Glacier, seen in the distance

beyond the wedge of rocks, feeds a tributary of the Puyallup

recreation ground, well known to Americans in every State. The coming of new railways to Puget Sound and the development of new facilities for reach- ing the Mountain make this certain.*

*For details as to rates for transportation, accommodations and guides, see Note at end of this chapter.

Winthrop Glacier and St. Elmo Pass, wilh Kuth Mounlain (llic \\'cd!<c) on right and Sour- Dough Mountains on left.

TFll-: NATION. \L I'AUK AND HOW To KliACH I'l"

55

I'orlion of Paradise Park and the i ainnsli Kaiitic

l'",\ffy slt'p to- wn I'll iii;ikiii'_: the I'ai'k iiiiiiT ;iiM't's- sil)l(' is a piiljlit- bcin'fit. Kxpci'-

iniccil 1 l',l \ rlcl'S a II I I Ml I) II M I ;| i II

(• I i III li f r s w li (• li ;i \ f visiti'd il unite ill dcclariiiL;'

its scclirry nil

(' i| n a 1 I'd ill t In- rnited States a ml Ullsii|-pass<Ml ;iiiy- w li (' V (' ill I li (■ Wdi'Id.

r n t i 1 recent y Cell's i t \v a s known only hy the liardy f e \v wlio deliiilit in

doin^ii ditticult things, lint that day lias passed. 'I'lie \aliie id' tlie I'iirk tu the whole American people is coming more and inoi-c to l)e appreciated. Itoili hy them and hy their official representatives. Whih- ('oiifrress lias ih'all less liberall\- witli this than with the uthei- ei-,.;ii .\;ii ion.d l';irks. what it has

appro|>riat I'd has heeli well s|)enl

in liiiildiiiiyr an in- V ,1 1 II a I) 1 e road. This is a eoiit inn- atioM of the well- mnde highway 111 a i n 1 a i n ed hy Pierce County t'r II III T a c oiii a . wli i eh passes til roll eh a de- li'j-li 1 t'l 1 1 country of partly wooded prairies and up the heavily for- ested slopes to Ihe edge of the Forest Reserve. These roads

Eastern end of the Tatoosh Range. liaVC pUt it With-

56

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS 'GOD'

in the power of automobilists from all parts of the Coast to reach the grandest of American moun- tains and the largest glaciers in the United States south of Alaska. They connect, at Tacoma, with ex- cellent roads from Seattle and other cities on the Sound, as well as from Portland and points farther south. The travel from these cities has already justified the con- struction of the roads, and is in- creasing every year. Even from California many automobile par- ties visit the 'ioL:

Mountain.

Persons who come by rail may, as I have said.

Ice Bridge, Stevens Glacier

choose between the train service of the Tacoma

Eastern Railway and a trip by au- tomobile. For those who do not come in their own cars, a line of automobile stages from Tacoma has been established, giving regular " ' and comfortable

Tug of War between teams picked from the feminine contingent of the Mountaineers. "^ ' ct II Sp O r Id I

n

a.

O

TIIK NATIOXAI, I'AUK AXI) HOW TO IJKAf'H IT

59

Reese's Camp, which his piittons ha\ c poetically called "Camp of the Clouds." A tent hotel on a ridfte in Paradise Park,

overlooking Nisgually Glacier. This is the usual starting; point of parlies for the

Stinimit o\er the Soulh-sidc route, \ ia Gihra'tar.

tlail\' lo Loiigiiiirc Spriiii;.s. jiiid offcrini:' niic of llic most ciijux jihK' se-L-nie trips to be had anywlicM-c.

Tile most iiiipdi'taiit iii(i\'i'iiii'iit tdwai'il iiiakiiiL; the .Muiiiil;i in hcitci' Uimwii and inoiT at'ccssihlc lias just hccii inauLiiiralcd. witli ^ood ixMinisc nl' suc- cess. It is pf(M)()S('d to

extend the new govern- ment road. How reaching Paradise Park, to tlie other "parks" on all sides of the peak. The under- taking is of such im])()rt- ance that it will doubtless receive prompt approval and proper support from Congress.

Congressional action foi- the openiiii: of this great alpine area to public use began in 1899. A tract •Mizhti'en miles square, to be known as "Ranier National Park." * was w i t hd I'a \v n f i"o m t h e

Climbing Paradise Glacier.

* For some years. Congress and the Interior Department speUed it "Ranier"! A weU- known Congressman from Seattle put them straight, and it lias since been officially "Rainier National Park."

t

3

z

c

C

s

c •a

o o

THIO XATIONAI, I'AKK AM) HOW To KKACII IT

61

L>,1 Ki.ilni) ncl'rs ul' lllr

Kiu-i'sl Ucsci-\i'. |irc

\i(iusly d'cjil I'd. 'rill'

,'il'i';i llius set ;ii>;irl

fill' till' rllJi'X llirlll III

till' pi'iiplr w.'is ;il-

I'raily know 11 tn fii-

thnsiasts .iml i'\|>li>r-

cl's ,'is (ilir of the

world's Lit'r.'i! wiiii-

di'l'l ,1 tids. Ill iMil

•laiiu's Ii(»iiL:iiiii'i'. ;i

prospcclui-. Ii.id liiiill

,'i ti'.'iil t'l'itiii ^'l■llll

o\vv Maslii'll iiiiiuii

tain and up llu' Nis

(piall.v I'ivri' In iM'ar

Pi'airie. Tliis lir rx-

t(Midod in 18S4 to lln'

spot now known as

Lon^' ni i re SpritiLis.

atnl tllrilci' ll|i tllr

Xis(iually ami I'ai'a-

disc rivci's lo tiu' I'c-

gionnow ralli'd i*ai'a-

dise I*at'k. Part of

this ti'ail was widrii-

I'll lalrr iiil o a wa^on

road, used for many

years by persons travelinu' to the Paradise connti-y. oi' seeking licallh at the

I'rmark'ahli' iiiiiu'i'a! spi'itiLis on tlir trai-t wliirli ihr Longniii'cs anpiii'ril I'voin

the government before tlic establishment of the Forest TJesei've.

Sluiskiii Falls, 150 Feet, jusl below Paradise Glacier

Looking across Winthrop Glacier from Avalanche Camp, on the East side ol Carbon Glacier, to Steamboat Prow (the Wedge) and St. Elmo Pass. Elevation of Camera, about S,50() feet.

62

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS 'GOD'

The Longmire road, rough as it was. long remained the best route to the Mountain, but in 1903 the late Francis W. Cushman, representative from this State, persuaded Congress to authorize the survey and construc- tion of a better one. AYork was not begun. hoAvever. until ]906. The yearly appropriations have been small, and total only $183,000 to the end of 1909.

The road, as now open to Paradise valley, is a monument to the en- gineering skill of Mr. Eugene Rick- secker. United States Assistant Engi- neer, in local charge of the work. Over its even floor yon go from the west boundary of the Forest Reserve up the north bank of the Nisqually river, as far as the foot of its glacier. Crossing on the bridge here, you climb up and up, around the face of a bluff known as Gap Point, where a step over the retaining wall would mean a sheer drop of a thousand feet into the river below. Thus you wind over to the Paradise river and up through its canyon to the broad and beautiful valley of the same name above, until you reach Camp of the Clouds and its picturesque tent hotel. The road has brought you a zig-zag journey of twenty-four miles to cover an air-line distance of twelve and a gain in elevation of 3,800 feet. It is probably unique in its grades. It has no descents. Almost everywhere it is a gentle climb. Below Longmire Springs the maximum grade is 2.5 per cent., and the average, 1.6 per cent. Beyond, the grade is steeper, but nowhere more than 4 per cent.

The alignment and grades originally planned have been followed, but only one stretch, a mile and a (piarter. has yet been widened to the standard width of eighteen feet. Lacking money for a broader road, the engineers built the rest of it twelve feet wide. They wisely believed that early opening of the

:.-"^->>:*^?^Ss?-^-^_o

Fairy Falls in Goat Lick Basin. This series of waterfalls has. a drop of several hundred feet.

THE NATIONAL I'\I;K' WI) II()\V TO REACH IT

63

I'diitr Idi* vehicles to l',ii;iilist'. rvcii though tlir r(i;i(l III' less lllilll st;iiHl;ii'tl wiiltli, wduld serve Ihe puhlic !>> making' the I'.ii-k hel- ter kii(»\vii. ;iii(l thus arouse iuteresl in iii;i k- iii'.;' it si ill more .u-ees- sihle. It will i'e(|uife about $60,000 to eoiii- plete the roacl to Stand- ard width, and make it t liofoiiL;hly seeui'e.

The next step in o|ienini:' iho National r.-ii'k to ])nlilie use should he the cii'i'vinL; out of Mr. R i e k - seeker's line plan for a road around the ^Foun- tain. His new map of the Parle, printed at the end (lit his vohune. sluiws the i-onte pro- posed. Leavinu' the present I'n.-id neai- Chi-istine Falls, helow the Xis(pially glacier. he woidd dniihle hack over the hills to Indian cnPMiKhi. ]:«•:<. by s. c. .-^muh

HI I , • (Checkerboard Crevasses on lower Cowlitz Glacier, with Basalt Cliffs and Cowlitz

e n I \ s 1 1 n II t 1 n <i' ,. , . . i ■ , i- i • i

^ Park above, and Little I ahonia in distance.

rrfiinnd. theiiee drop-

piim into the canyon of Tahonia Fork, clind)in^ ii|) to St. Andrew "s I'ark, and so worUint:' round to the IMowich frlaeiers. Spray Falls and the u;i-eat "parks" of the north side. The snout of each glacier would he reache(| in turn, and the luLih pleateans which the ulaciers have left would he visitecl.

Crossing ^loraine I'ark and Winthro]) glacier's old hed. the i-oad would ascend to Gi'and Pai-k and the Soui* - T~)oui:li country — a region nnsurpassecl anywhere on the ]\I(nintain for the hreadth and grandeur of its views. ]More descents, climbs and detoui-s would bring it to the foot of White glacier, and thence through Summer Land and Cowlitz Park, and westward to a junction with the existing road in Paradise Park. Its elevation would range between four and seven thousand feet above the sea. The route, as indicated on the map, suggests very i)lainly the engineering feats involved in hani^ino- roads on these steep and deeply-carved slopes.

.^:V^^^^

66

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS -GOD"

y*!*^,^ •

n#-

Mountain Climbers on St. Elmo Pass. North side of the Wedge, from upper side of the Pass. Elevation, 9,000 feet.

View taken

Between eighty and a hundred miles of construction work would be required, costing approximate- ly $10,000 a mile. Including the comple- tion of the present road to s t a n d a r d width. Congres's will thus have to provide a round million if it wishes to develop the full value of this vast wonderland. I shall iKtt use any of my little space in trying to prove that this expenditure is worth while. Every Con- gressman who makes the trip over the new r o a d already built will know it, and know why. Such a r o a d would justify the Congress which authorizes it, immor- talize the engineers who build it, and lionor the nation that owns it.

NOTE.

Rates, Accommodations, Guides, Etc.— The fare via the Tacoma Eastern Railway from Tacoma to the Mountain is $6 for the round trip, including the automobile-stage ride over the new government road from Ashford to Longmire's and return. Tickets are good for the season. Parties of ten or more, traveling on one ticket, $5 per capita. A week-end ticket, Saturday to Monday, is sold at $5.

Automobile stages sealing ten passengers leave the office of the De Lape Tours Company, 110 South Ninth street, Tacoma. for the Mountain every morning during the summer at 7:30, 8 and 8:30 o'clock, reaching Longmire's in SV^ hours. Distance, 70 miles. Returning, they leave Longmire's at 3:30, making the trip down in 4^^ hours. The route is over the new Pierce County road above the Nisqually canyon to Ashford and over the government road through the National Park. Fare for the round trip, $7. Reservations should be made in advance.

Automobiles are permitted to enter or leave the National Park only between the hours of 8 a. m. and 6 p. m. An automobile permit must be purchased at the keeper's lodge, at the western boundary of the Park. This costs $5, and is good for the season,

THE NA'|-I().\.\I. I'AKK AND IfOW TO REACH IT

67

provided lliiii its owner iiiid liis machine obst-rve the rules. The si)eed limit is twelve miles i)i'r hour, with six milts on curves. Public safety demands that this rule be strictly enforced — -and it is. I'ersons violaliiiK it have the unpleasant exi>erience of losing their iHimiis nml findinf? iheir cars chained up.

The .\;Liii)ii;il i';iiU Inn. I.oiiiiinire Springs, i)rovides excellent rooms and a good table, hi adilitioii to the rooms in the Inn, a large number of well-furnished and com- fortable tents are provided near by. The rates range from $2.50 to $3.75 a day, American iihm.

At the old I.oiigmire hotel, the rates are $2 to $:i.r>() for ro(jm and board.

The niiiieial springs are of great variety, and are highly recommended lor their medicinal virtues. Within an area of several acres, there are a score of these springs, varying from the normal temix-rature of a mountain stream almost to blond heat. Woll- api)ointed bath houses are maintained. Fee, including attendance, $1.

The cost of getting fioin Loui^iuire S|)iiiigs to Paradise Park or linliau ibiiry's is moderate. Many jjrefer to mai\e these trii)S on foot. Daily i)arties, with exjjerienced guides, are made up sevi-ral limes a day for the trails to each of these great "parks." Sure-footed horses are provided for those who wish to ride, at $1.50 for the round trip.

.-V line of stages carries jjassengers from T^ongmire's over the government road to Xisqually glacier, Narada Falls and Camp of the Clouds, in Paradise Park. The charge for the trip to Narada and return is $2; to Paradise Park and return, $3.

At Reese's Camp, in Paradise Park, and at the similar tent hotel in Indian Henry's, the charge for meals, with a tent for sleei)ing, is $2.50 per day.

Guides may be had at the National Park Inn or at either of the "camps" for many interesting trips over the motiiiiaiii trails. Horses also are furnished. The charge varies with the number in a party.

For those who wish to make the ascent over the Gibraltar trail, trustworthy guides may be enga.ged at the National Park Inn or at Reese's Camp. Arrangements should be made several days in advance. The cost of such a trip depends ui)on the number in a party. The guides make an initial charge of $25 for the first member of the party, and $5 each for the others. They will furnish alpenstocks, ropes, and calks for the shoes of motintain climbers at a reasonable charge. Each person should carry with him a blanket or extra coat and a small atiiount of food, for use in the event of being on the summit over night. Still heavier clothing will be required if the night is to be spent at Camp Mtiir.

Ascents from othei' points ihaii ileese's are usually made in siiecial parties, under the guidance of persons familiar with the routes. AH persons are warned not to attempt an ascent unless accompanied by experienced guides. Lives have been lost through neglect of this precaution.

For persons visiting the North Side, the Northern Pacific rate from Tacoma to Fairfax is .$1.2."): and from Seattle to Fairfax, with change of cars at Puyallu|i. $1.75. Guides and horses may be engaged at Fairfax for the Spray Park trail.

Passing a liig Crevasse on Interglacier. Sour- Dough Mountains on the right, with Grand Park heyond. Ruth Mountain (the Wedge) and St. Elmo Pass on left, with Glacier Basin in depression.

The Mountaineers on W inthrop Glacier. III.

THE s;tory of thp: MorxTAix

I asked myself. How was this colossal work performed? Who chiseled these mighty and picturesque masses out of a mere protuberance of earth? And the answer was at hand. Ever young, ever mighty, wnth the vigor of a thousand w-orlds still within him, the real sculptor was even then climbing up the eastern sky. It was he who planted the glaciers on the mountain slopes, thus giving gravity a plough to open out the valleys; and it is he who, acting through the ages, will finally lay low these mighty monuments, * * * so that the people of an older earth may see mould spread and corn wave over the hidden rocks which at this moment bear the weight of the Jungfrau. • — John Tyndall: "Hours of Exercise in the Alps."

The life of a glacier is one eternal grind. — .John .Muir.

Ol'R stately Mountain, in its yonth. was as eomely and symmetrical a cone as ever graced the galaxy of volcanic peaks. To-day. while still young as compared with the obelisk crags of the Alps, it has already taken on the venerable and deeply-scarred physiognomy of a veteran. It is no longer merely an overgrown boy among the hills, but. cut and torn by the ice of cen- turies, it is fast assuming the dignity and interest of a patriarch of the mountains.

Crossing Carbon Glacier. On the ice slopes, it is customary to divide a large party into companies, with an experienced

alpinist at the head of each. The picture shows the Mountaineers marching in tens.

Note the Medial Moraines on the Glacier.

i- M

' '. I

'^

Nisqually Glacier. «ith its smirces In the Snow Field of the Siiiiiniit. (In ihc right is Gihrallar Rock and on the extreme left Kautz Glacier Ho« s do« n from Peak Success. Note the .Medial Moraines, resulting from junction of Ice Streams above. These apparently small lines of dirt are often great ridges of rocks, cut from the cliffs. The picture also illustrates ho« the marginal crevasses of a glacier point douii sireani from the center, though the center flows faster than the sides.

•v

v.^

\

^v

'.,.U

,,^.«-

V

.ill

'J =.

^^PV:<'^

c Z

*>-.\

^ \^ •H.-,_^^

Till': S'l'OIiY OF '|-|!1-: MorXTAlX

71

To S (I 111 (' . IK)

II t) t

t h ('

snioolli, yoiitliriil f'oiitoiirs ol" ;iii ac- tive volcano seem moro ])oantifiil than 111!' Mi'jufil g:raii(lciir of the Weissliorn. 'I'lir perfect cone ol :\rt. St. TTclens. until I'cccntly in ♦Tuption. ])l('ascs them nioi'c than tile broad dome of Mt. Adams, rounded by a prehistoric ex- plosion, l^ut nil) so with all. To those who Iom- nature and the story written upon its face, mountains have

Measuring the Ice Fl()» in the Nisguully Glucicr. In l''(l.^ l'ir>f. J. N. I,c Clonic <>( Berkeley, Cal.. established the fact that this Glacier has an aserafie How, in snm- mer, of 16.2 inches a day. The inovenient is greater in the center than on the sides, and greater on the convex side of a cnr\e than on the concave side. It thus is a true river, though a slow one. The measurements are taken by running a line from one lateral moraine to the other with a surveying instrument, setting stakes at short intervals, and ascertaining the advance they make from da> to day.

eh a racter as

truly as men, and they show it in their features as clearly.

Nowhere is this better exemplified than in the monarch of the (.'ascades. No longer the huge conical pimple which a volcano erecteil lui the caiiirs crust, it bears on its face the history of its own explosion, wliich scattered its top far over the landscape, and of its losing battle with the sun. which, em- ploying the heaviest of all tools, is steadily destroying it. It has alreatly lost a tenth of its height and a third of its bulk. The ice is cutting deeper and deeper into its sides. Upon three of them, it has excavated great amphitheaters which it is ceaselessly driving back toward the heart of the peak. As if to compensate for these losses of size and shapeliness, the I\Iountain has become the most interesting monument and presents the most important phenomena of glacial action to be seen anywhere in the United States.

In dimensions alone, however, it is still one of the world's great peaks. The Rainier National Park, eighteen miles square. — as large as many counties in the East — has an elevation along its western and lowest boundary averaging four thousand feet above sea level. Assuming a diameter of only twenty miles, the area covered by the peak exceeds three hundred stpiare miles. Of its vast surface upwards of 32.500 acres, or about fifty-one square miles, are covered by glaciers or the fields of perpetual snow Avhich feed them. A straight line

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS 'GOD-

These views show the larger of the two comparatively modern and small craters on the broad platform left by the

and 1,450 feet from East to West. The other, much smaller, adjoins it so closely that their rims touch.

miles from North Peak (Liberty Cap) and South Peak (Peak Success). At the

Crest." The volcano having long been inactive, the craters are tilled

drawn tlir(»ui.:li t'n»iii 1 lie i-iul oi Xortli Taliouia ulaeicr. on the west side, to the end of White olaeier. on the east, would be thirteen miles lonu'. The circum- ference of the crest, on the 10. ()()(» foot contour, is nearly seven miles. The twelve primary glaciers vary in length from thre(^ to eight miles, and from half a mile to three miles in width. There are as many "inter- glaciers." or snndler ice streams wliicli gather their snow supply, not from the neve fields of the summit, but below the wedges of rock which the greater glaciers have left standing upon the upper slopes.

The geological story may be told in a few untechnical words. As those folds in the earth w'hich parallel the Coast w^ere slowly formed by the lateral pressure of sea upon land, fractures occuri-cd in the incline thus created. Through the tissures that resulted the subterranean fires thrust molten rock wdiich formed volcanic craters. The

most active craters built up, climbing the Cowlltz CU-aver to Gibraltar. This Spine is one of the 1 ,- I? 1 T great ridges left by the glaciers. On the other side of it is a drop

by eruptions of lava and of several thousand feet to Nisgually Clacier.

TIIK STOKV OF 'nil': .Mn|-\'I- MX

explosion which dccupitulcd ihc I'L-ak. I'rol. I'Ictt measured this Oatcr. and found i( I.WM) feet (nun North lo Soiiili. To)<ether they form an eminence of I.IHK) feet on (op of the Mountain, at a distance of more than two junction of their rims is the Ureat snou hill (on rijiht of \iew) called "(^oluinhia's «ith sno«. but steam and tiases escape in places along their rims.

nslics. ;i uivnl sci'ii^s of cotics now seen on hotli sides of tin- cordillrr;!. lh;it hiiuf iiioiiiit;iiii syslciii wliifli honlcrs llic I'.icilic tVoiii I'x'liriiiL; sf;i to iln- iStrails of .Mjiuc'II.'iii. 'riicoin;i-R;iiiiici- is oiic ol' llir \\[<>yr iiii[iort;iiil units in this army of volcmic uianls.

I'lilikc sonic ol' its coniiiaiiioiis. liowcNcr. it owes its hulk loss to la\a Hows tlian to the explosive eniptioiis wliicli threw rorlii hoinlis and seofiac. Il is a mass id' aLiiiIomei'.-ites. with oidy occasional sti-ata of solid \o|c;ini<- ro(d<. This hecoines e\idenl to one who inspects the expused sides i)\' any (d' the canyons, or i>\' the iii-eal cliffs. ( iihcaltai' l\o(d<. Little 'ralnnna oi' IJnssidl I'eak. It is made (dear even in such ;i piclni'e ,is that ini pa li'c 77 of this hook.

LunchinS in a Crevasse. l.^.fXK) feet above the sea. Fven Little Tahoma. on the left, is tar below.

74

THE MOrXTAIX THAT WAS -GOD"

Ice-bound lake in Cowlitz Park, with top of Little Tahoma in distance.

structive power must have been when their volume was many times greater may be judged from the moraines along their former channels. Some of these ridges are hun- dreds of feet in height. As you go to the ^Mountain from Tacoma. either by the Tacoma Eastern railway or the Nis- qually canyon road, you find them everywhere above the prairies. ]\Iany of them are covered with forests that must be centuries old.

Even now. diminished as

This looseness of structure accounts for the rapidity with which the glaciers are cutting down the peak. All of them carry an extraordinary amount of debris, to be deposited in lateral or terminal moraines, or dropped in streams which they feed. They are rivers of rock as well as of ice.

That the glaciers of this and every other mountain in the northern hemisphere are rapid- ly receding, and that they are now mere pygmies compared with their former selves, is well known. AYhat their de-

-1

Crevasses in Cowlitz Glacier, with waterfall dropping from Cowlitz Park, over Basaltic Cliffs.

COPYRIGHT 1907, BY W. P. ROMANS

Spray Park, from Fay Peak, showing the beautiful region between ibe Carbon and North Mowich Glaciers

Till': STOltV OF TllK MOINTAIX

t lii'V ;i ri'. till' 'jl.ii-ici's are fast 1 i'aiis|i(>rl iiij; till' Muiitii aiii towani tlie sea. \Vlifi'('\cr ;i lilac'icr skirts a ditV. it is cutting' iiilo its side, as it ('Ills iiitd its own l)c(| liildw. Fi'diM the ovcrliaiiii- iiiiT rocks, too. (l('l)i'is I'alls upon the ice stream. Tlius the marginal m o ra i n r s bofjin to fofiii. on 1 lir ice, far up the side of the peak. As the gla- cier advances, driven by its own weight ami tlio resisth'ss mass ol' s n o \v a l)o ve. it is often j(Mne(l by an- other ulacicr. hfiiiLi- in<:' its own niaruinai moraines. W'hci'c 1 1n- two meet, a medial m 0 r a i n e results. * Some medial moraines are many feet higli. Trees ai"(" fouml v'rowin.i:' on Iheni. In Switzerland houses are built upon them. Often the debris which they transport, as the ice carries them t'oi-ward. in- cludes rocks as ])i<:' as a ship.

"^^^^T.^ ^k^V ^^r

^-^/'^A

v.-

.^v

jt

.{■

Mazamas rounding Gibraltar— a reminiscence of the ascent by the famous Portland Club in 1905. The precipice rises more than I00() feet abii\ e the trail.

A glacier's tlmv

varies from a hun<li-ed to a thousand ieet or more a year, depending upon its volume, its width, and the slope of its bed. As the decades pass, its level is greatly lowered by the melting of the ice. More and moi-e, earth and rocks accumulate upon the surface, as it travels onward, and are scattered over it ])\- the i-ains and melting snow. At last, in its old age. when far down

* See iUustrations on pp. 68 and 69.

78

THE MOUXTAIX THAT WAS -GOD"

its eanj'on, the glacier is completely hidden, save where crevasses reveal the ice. Only at its snout, where it breaks off, as a rule, in a high wall of ice, do we realize how huge a volume and weight it must have, far above toward its sources, or why so many of the crevasses on the upper ice fields seem almost bottomless.

These hints of the almost inconceivable mass of a glacier, w4th its millions of millions of tons, suggest how much of the ^Mountain has already been whittled and planed away. But here we may do better than speculate. The original surface of the peak is clearly indicated by the tops of the great rocks which have survived the glacial sculpturing. They are from one to two thousand feet high. The best known are Gibraltar and the ridges that stretch downward from it. Cowlitz Cleaver and Cathedral Rocks, making a great inverted V. E a s t - ward of this, another V, with its apex to- ward the summit, is called Little Tahoma ; and beyond, still an- other. Steamboat Prow, forming the tipof "The Wedge."

Spines of rock like these are found on all sides of the peak. They help us to esti- mate its greater cir- cumference and bulk, before the glaciers had chiseled so dee])- ly into it.

l>ut they do even nioi'e. AVherever lava flows occurred in the building of th( ""^loun- tain, stratn lormed: and sn c h stratifi • i- tion is clearly T'^'ju at Avide intervals on the sides of the great rocks just mentioned. Its incline, of course, is that of the former surface. The strata point upward — not ..^ .. . ^ ^. . . ....

'■ Climbing the Chute on west side of Gibraltar. I his is so steep that the guides

toward the summit cut steps in the ice.

THE STORY OF IIIK MorXTAI.V

79

which we sec. hut far above it. For this reason tlie Lreolo<rists avIio have examined the riddles most eioselyare agreed

that the |ic;il< li;is

lost nearly two thousand ft-ct of its h (■ i l; li I . It blew its own head oft"!

Such exjilosive e r u pi ions are amoni;' the woi-st vices ot' volcan- oes. Every vis- itor to Naples re- m em b ers how plainly the land- scape north of Vesuvin.s tells of a prehistoric de- capitation. whi(di left oidy a low. broad platform, on the south i-im of which the little Vesuvius t h a t many of us have e limbed was formed hy hitei- eruptions. Siiui-

Looking from lop o( Gibraltar over the Snow-lields to the Summit. Elevation of camera. 12, .WO feet. In distance is seen the rim of the Crater. The route to this is a steady climb, with 2. (KM) feet of ascent in one mile ot distance. Many detonrs have to be made to avoid crevasses. Note the big crevasse stretching away on right — a " fJcrgschrund," as the Swiss call a break where one side falls far below the other. The stratification on its side shows in each layer a year's sno«. packed into ice.

larl>-. hei"e at

home, Mt. Adams and Mt. Baker are truncated cones, while, on llie other hainl,

St, Helens and Hood are still symmetrical.

Like Vesuvius, too, Rainier-Taconia has hnilt upon the j)latcau left when it lost its' head. Peak Success, overlooking: Indian Ilem-y's. and Liberty Cap. the northern elevation, seen from Seattle and 'racoma. are nearly thrcf miles apart on the west side of the broad suunnit. These arc parts of the rim of the old crater. East of the line uniting them, and about two miles from each, the volcano built up an elevation now known as Crater Peak, coniprisint": two small adjacent craters. These burnt-out craters are now filled with snow, and where the rims touch, a big snow-hill rises — the strange creature of eddying

^^;'^'^

IS'^' ^^■^■^K.iMJt )^5

■3 -3

- o Z O

— a

- u

c

THE STORY OF Till; Mol XIAIX

81

North I'cak, or "Liberty Cap," so called from Its resemblance to the Bonnet Kougc of the French Kcvolutionists.

■elevation, about 14,000 feet. View taken from the side of Crater E'eak, the easternmost and highest

of the three peaks which crown the Sunimil. Distance, more than two miles.

winds that sweep up IIii-ouliIi the Lll'eat tluilie cut hy \i>Ir;illie eXplosiiill ;ill(l

glacial aetiiiii in the west sich' of the peak. *

This mound of snow is the present actual top. Believing it the iiighest point in the I'nited States south of Alaska, tlie ali)inists soiiu- years ago named it "Columbia "s ('rest." The name has stuck, in spite it\' tlie faet that the govornnient geographers liave adopted, for llie Dictionary of .Mtitudes. tlie height found hy Prof. MeAdie, 14,363 feet, thus ranking the Mountain second to Mt. Whitney, in California (14.522 feet).

There are those, however, who refuse to he disabused dj' their belief that the height of 14.r)29 feet, found hy many scientific investigators as a result of careful hai'ometric ohsei-vat ions, is the true altitude. It is pi-ohahle that scientists will not be content until the question sliall have been settled by a competent and impartial commission. For the present, however, I give the official lignres. .\ few feet of height sigidfy nothiuL:. No C'aliforida pealc. hidden awa\- behind the Sierra, can vie in majesty with the .Mountain that rises in stately- gi-andeur from the shores of Puiret Siuind.

The wide area which the ^Tountaiu thrusts up into ihe sk_\- is ;i highly efficient coinbMisei- >>{' moisture. Xejii- Id the Pacific as it is. it collects several hundred feet of snow each year from the warm Chinooks. ;ind on all sides this mass presses down, to feed the ])rimary glaciers of the ui>|>ei- slopes. Starting from Paradise, these in order are: Cowlitz and iniii-ah.im glaciers; "White

* See illustratii>ii on page 28, which .'^how.s not only the deep cleft on the west side, but also the three peaks on the summit.

82

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

glacier, largest of all ; Winthrop glacier, named iu honor of Theodore Winthrop, in whose delightful romance of travel. "The Canoe and the Saddle," the ancient Indian name "Tacoma" was first printed; Carbon, North and South ^lowich. Puyallup, North and South Tahoma, Kautz and Nisqually glaciers.

The most important secondary glaciers, or "interglaciers, " rising below the rock wedges, are Interglacier, Paradise, Stevens, Frying-Pan and Van Trump.

There has been considerable uncertainty as to some of these names, chiefly due to a recent government map. For instance, in that publication. White glacier, most properly so called because it feeds the White river, was named Emmons glacier, after S. F. Emmons, a geologist who made one of the first explorations of the peak. North and South ]\Iowich glaciers, feeding streams similarly named, were miscalled Willis and Edmunds glaciers, after Bailey Willis, geologist, and George F. Edmunds, late United States senator, who visited the Mountain many years ago. South Tahoma glacier was renamed Wilson glacier, for A. D. Wilson. Emmons's companion in exploration. Finally, the name of General Hazard Stevens, who made the first ascent of the peak in 1870, was misplaced, being given to the west branch of the Nisqually, whereas Stevens glacier is the well-defined interglacier adjoining the Paradise on the east.

Such errors in a government document are the more inexcusable because their author ignored names adopted in the original publications of the Geolog- ical Survey. The new map prepared by i\Ir. Ricksecker, and printed herewith, returns to the older and better usage. Unless good reason can be shown for departing from it. his careful compilation .should be accepted as authoritative.

The Mountaineers crossing a precipitous slope on White Glacier. Little Tahoma in distance.

THE STOUV OP THK MOTWTMX

83

Hydro-clcctric plant ill RIcctroii, on the Fuyallup ri\cr. producinit 2K,U0U h. p.

A word about the iiidusti'ial value of the Mountain may not he without interest in this day of electricity. It is well known that, within a radius of sixty miles of the lu;id of Puget Sound, more water descends from hi<rh levels to the sea than in any oilier similar area in the United States. The greater part of this is collected <»ti the largest peak. Hydraulic engineers have esti- mated, on investigation, an average annual precipitation, for the summit and upper slopes, of at least 180 inches, or four times the rainfall in Taeoma or Seattle. The melting snows feed the White. Puyallup and Nisciually rivers, large streams flowing into the Sound, and the Cowlitz, an important tributary of the Columbia. The minimum flow of these streams is computed at more than 1200 second feet, while their average flow is nearly twice that total.

The utilization of this large water supply on the steep mountain slopes began in 1904 with the erection of the Electron plant of the Puget Sound Power Company. For this llie water is diverted from the Puyallu|» i-iver ten miles from the end of its glacier, and 1750 feet above sea level, and carried ten miles more in an open flume to a reservoir, from which four steel penstocks, each four feet in diameter, carry it to the power house 900 feet below. The plant generates 28.000 h. p.. whieli is conveyed to Taeoma, twenty-five miles distant, at a pressure of 60,000 volts, and there is distributed for the operation of street railways, lights and factories in that city and Seattle.

A more important development is in progress on the larger White river near Buckley, where the Pacific Coast Power Company is diverting the water by a dam and eight-mile canal to Lake Tapps, elevation 540 feet above tide. From this great reservoir it will be taken through a tunnel and pipe line to the generating plant at D<Mringer. elevation 65 feet. The 100.000 h. p. produced here will be cari-ied lifteeu mih-s to Taeoma. for sale to manufacturers in the Puget Sound cities.

Both these plants ;ire enterprises of Stone & Webster, of Boston. A eom-

84

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS -GOD"

petitive plant is now under construction by the city of Tacoma. utilizing the third of the rivers emptying into the Sound. The Nisqually is dammed above its re- markable canyon, at an ele- vation of 970 feet, where its minimum flow is 300 second feet. The water will be car- ried through a 10.000-foot tunnel and over a bridge to a reservoir at La Grande, from which the penstocks

Building Tacoma's Electric Power Plant on the Nis- qually Canyon. Upper view shows site of retention dam, abo\'e tunnel;

middle view, end of tunnel, where pipe- line will cross the canyon on a bridge: lower view, site of the generating plant.

will carry it down the side of the canyon to the 40.000 h. p. generating plant on the river below. The city expects to be able to pro- duce power for its own ^^se. Avith a considerable margin for sale, at a cost at least as l(iw as can be attained any- where in the United States. Its success will be largely due to the admirable de- signs and beginning of con- struction made under ^Ir.

o

o

o

0

0" 0

o

1 pUdUv

'ID ■;s.

THH STORY OP I' UK MOUNTAIN

87

Frank ( '. Ki'lscy.

foriiuT cliii-r en- gineer.

The rocks of

whicli ill!' MiMiii-

tain is eoinposcMl

are mainly atidf-

sitcs "f ilitTcft'iit

classes and liasalt.

But tlic |)caK- rcsls

upon a |ila1 turin of

granite, into whicli

the glncici-s have

cut in their prog- ress. Several ol' the

canyons disclose

tine outei'oppini;s

of the oldi'i' anil

hard(M* l-oek. These

a re es p e e i a 1 1 y

clear on 1 he side (d'

the Nisipially. jnst

helow the present

eiul (){' its Lilaeier.

as well as on the

Carbon and in .Mo- raine Park. whi(di

was until i'ecentl_\-

the lied of a glacier. This accounts for the fact that the river beds are full

of trranit<' bowld- ers, wh i ch a re lirindini; the s(^ft- rv \dlcanic shin- uile into soil. Thus the glaciers are not only fast de- forming the peak. They are "sow- ing the seeds of continents to r3'R5=f-« be

Admiral Peter Rainier, of the Hritish Navy, in whose honor Captain Georfte \'ancou\er, in 1792, named the great peak"Mt. Rainier."

Echo Rock, on w est hranch ot Carhon Glacier.

-= ^

•zl —

- C.

- c

-C ;

u 3 3 a:

r'c.pyrislit. 1909. by Asahel r-urtis View looking across Moraine Park and Carbon Glacier to Mother Mountains.

IV.

THE FLORA OF THE :\rOUNTAIX SLOPES

By PROF. J. B. FLETT *

Of all the fire-mountains which, like beacons, once blazed along the Pacific Coast, Mount Rainier is the noblest in form. Its massive white dome rises out of its forests, like a world by itself. Above the forests there is a zone of the loveliest flowers, fifty miles in circuit and nearly two miles wide, so closely planted and luxuriant that it seems as if Nature, glad to make an open space between woods so dense and ice so deep, were economizing the precious ground, and trying to see how many of her darlings she can get together in one mountain wreath — daisies, anemones, columbines, erythroniums, larkspurs, etc., among which we wade knee-deep and waist-deep, the bright corollas in myriads touching petal to petal. Altogether this is the richest subalpine garden I ever found, a perfect floral elysium. — John Muir: "Our National Parks."

NO ONE can visit the Mountain with- out being impressed by its wild flowers. These are the more noticeable because of their high color — a common characteristic of flowers in alpine regions. As we visit the ^lountain at a season when the spring flowers of the lowlands have gone to seed, we find there another spring season with flowers in still greater numbei- jind more varied in color.

The base of the Mountain up to an altitude of about 4,000 feet is covered bv a somber

* Prof. Flett knows the Mountain well. He has spent many summers in its "parks," has climbed to its summit four times, has visited all its glaciers, and iias made a remarkable collection of its flowers. In addition to the chapter on the botany of the Natural Park, this book is indebted to him for several of its most valuable illustrations.

Anemones

■1I1I-; FI.OliA OF I UK AlOl X'lAI.X SLOl'KS

91

fort' si of ovcr- yret'lls coiiiixiscd (il the wliitc ;iii(l lihirk pi 11 1' s ; I ) ti II l: 1 .1 s. lovely jiihI imlilt' fi r s ; t h 0 w li i t (' cedar: s|)!-iicf. jiml

llclllliM'k. 'riiiTr .iri' fouml .ilsu sc\rl-;il

clefiiliuMis t n- (' s — ■ larii'c-lcjil't'd innpli'. whiti' ;ild('r. coltoii- \V()<m|. i|I|;i kitiL;' ;is- p e 11. \ i 11 !■ ;i 11 d S m (> o 1 li 1 (' ;i !'(■( I maplt's. iind S('\rr;il

species ol' willows. Thus the silva ol' the Idwci' slopes is highly varied. Tlie forest is often inler- r u p t e d h y t h e glacial canyons, aiul. at intervals, by fire- swept areas.

The alpine mea- dows beuiii 111 ap- pear at an altitude of about 5.000 feet.

The real alpine trees, with their ti'ini. straiLihl Iruiiks and drnn].iii'j branches, are in strange contrast to their relatives ol' the lower altitude. Tin' |>riiicipal trees of the meadow area are the alpine i\v. the alpine hemlock, and the Alaska cedar. These constitute the greater jjarl id' the silva of Paradise Valley. There are a few trees of the lovely fir in the lower part of the valley, and a few white- barked pines overlooking the glaciers ai tiinber line.

The trees of the park zone ditfer greatly on ditTerent slopes. On the northeast and east, the while-barked |)ine and the alpine spruce form no small part of the tree groups. The white-barked ])ine branches out like the scrub oak on the prairie. It is never seen at a low altitude. The alpine spruce bears numerous cones all over the tree, and has sharp leaves. thouLdi not so sharp as its relative, the tideland spruce.

Not only is there a difference in the trees on the different slopes of the Mountain, but there is a marked difference in the herbaceous plants as well. Hesperogenia StrictLondi is a small, yellow plant of the celery family. This is very abundant, both in Spray Park and also in the country east of the

A H-foot Fir, near Miiii-ral Lake

Sunrise in Indian Henry's Park, with view of the Southwest Slope and Peak Success, showing Purple Asters, with bunches

o{ Hellebore in center ot Flower Field

Till'] Pl.OitA <)I' 'I'lll': MOIXTAIX SI.OPKS

93

('.iriiDii (;l;iricr. lull r,ii-c oii llir sKiitli side. (I'ili.i Xiil t.illii. ;i l.ii-'ji'. |ilili».\-liki' |il;iii1. is ;i liiiiK hint niilv ill llii' lijili.iii Ilriifv r('}4:iuii.

'I'wn ,1 llclllulH's. uljc lull I iTcll |i, llircc willnWS ;ill(| iijlr si'll.-clM srciii In lir (•(illlillcd Id lilt'

Wliilr lii\ii- i-iiiinlr\ 'ihi- moss cjiiniiKiii

ll;iS hern rnliml uIl \\ nil MiiW icll. ^ The liinst Mill iccililr ;iii(l ,1 1 »i I II 1 1 ;i 1 1 1 iNtWcr

^J on ;ill slo|)('s is lilt' avaliiiiclie lily ( Erytlii-oii- iiiiii iiioiitMiiuin ). This plant conu's up tlwiniirli sc\ri;i| iiifhi's ol' tilt' old siit)\v t-nist. ainl roiiiis hciiit i fill hi'tls t>|" purt' wliitf flowtTs. Im llir rxchisioii of iicaflx all oilier plants. Tlici'c an- ot'li'ti IVoiii .seven to nine hlossoius on a stt'tii. This has othei" popular names, such as deertoneiie ami ailderloiiuiie. Tliei'e is also a yellow species, j^rowin^f with the (ither. Imi! less ahiindant. Tt seldom has more than one or two llowefs on a stem. The yellow alpine Initterc-ui) uciuTally iirows with the erylhroniums. ll al.su tries to rush

An eminent scientist practices the simple life near the I imher Line

Floral Carpet in Indian Henry's Park, where "Mountain Heliotrope," more properly Valerian, and other

flowers abound near the snow line

94

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD'

the season by coming np through the snow. The western anemone is a little more deliberate, but is found quite near the snow. It may be known by its lavendcM-. or purple flowers; and later l)y its large plume-like heads, which are no less admired than the flowers them- selves.

The plants just mentioned are the harbingers of spring. Follow- ing them in rapid succession are many plants of various hues. The mountain dock, mountain dande- lion, and potentilla seldom fail to

Alpine Hemlock and Mountain Lilies. In struggle for existence at the Timber Line Flowers prosper, but Trees fight for life against storm and snow.

the

Mountain Asters.

appear later. The asters, often wrongly called daisies, are represented by several spe- cies, some of which blossom early, and are at their best along with the spring flowers. The great majority of the composite family bloom later, and thus prolong the gorgeous array. The lupines add much to the beauty of this meadow region, both at a low altitude, and also in the region above timber line. Their bright purple flowers, in long racemes, with palmate leaves, are very conspicuous on the grassy slopes. Between timber line and 8,500 feet, Lyall's lupine grows in dense silk mats, with dark purple flowers — the most beautiful plant in that zone.

Four different kinds of heather are found on the Mountain. The red heather is the largest and the most abundant. It grows at a lower altitude than the others, and is some- times, erroneously, called Scotch heather.

Looking down from ''tHrniigan RiJijc into the Canyon of the Noitli Mo« icl) Glacier and up to the rioud-wreathed Peak

•-1 1 1 /'■ t

Till-: FLORA OK 'IIII-: MOINIAIX SI.Ol'KS

Stiid\ intt llic I'hiox.

Tliri'c jiiv two kinds of while hcMllicr. Hora. ol'lt'ii urowiiiL; with tlic red. The

nboul tilllbrf line. The yellow lle;illler

is lai'^tT and moi'c coiiiinoii lliaii the otliers. It ol'teii forms lieautirul areas where other vegetation is I'are. The wliite rhodo(h'ndroii is a heautil'nl shrnli of the htwei' meadows. Its creamy white hh^ssoms remind one of tlie cultivated azalea. There are sevei-al hutdvleberries, some Avith large bushes growing in the lower forest area, otliers small and adapted to the grassy meadows.

The figwort family has many and i-uii ous representatives. The rose - purple monkey-flower is very eomiiion .md eon- spicuoiis in the lower meadows, along the streams. It is nearly always accompa))- ied ])y the yellow fireweed. Higher up, large meadow areas are arrayed in bi-ight yellow by the alpine monkey-flower. Above timlier line, two pentstemons. with matted leaves and short stems willi bril- liant purple and red flowers, cover large

One forms a prominent part (d' the

othei' is less eonspienous a)id ijrows also grcjws at the same ;dlituile. and

Squaw Grass, or Mountain Lily

(Xerophyllum tcnax)

Mosses and Ferns, in the Forest Keser\e, on way to l.ongmire Springs.

Till'; Fi.()i{.\ OK riih: .moixiaix slopes

91*

I'lii-ky |i;i1clics. mixed here .•MhI I llrlT wiili laXfllllcr linls I if 1 hr ;il|)iii(' ])lllnx : AVllilc the .•iinlii'i- r;iys of llic uinldi-n .istiT. sc.it tfi-i'(| llir()U<rh these \;ii-ic'j;ilci| ImmIs. Inid tlicir i-li.ii'iii Id llic rii(d<y fid'jrs. Till' liidi;iii |i;iiiit lii-lisli. ill.- speed We I I. the eleiilljllll 's tniidc. ;iiid the j)i<fe(»ii l)ills Jil'e all Welldciiowil liieillhers of Ili(i lai'irc fiLMVoi-t i'amily Axliicli d(ies iiiiirh to cinbcl- lisli the .Moiiiiiaiii Inea(lo^vs. The xaleriaii. oricii wi'miiily <■ .1 1 1 !■ d ' ■ iiiiiiiiitaiii helio- liiipe." is very common nn the i:rassy slopes. Its odoi-

can often I)e deterled befoi-e if is seen. The I'usy spii'aea. the iiioiiiitaiii ash. and the wild eiirrant. ai-e three eom- 1111)11 shi-iihs ill this area. T h e re are alsii iiiiiiieriHis small liei-haceinis i)lants of the saxifrage family, some f(n"ming dense mats to tlu^ exclusion of other plants. The mertensias. pole- luoiiiums. and sliootin^' stars add nnich to the purple ami blue colorin<z'.

Two liliaceous plants of low altitude are always objcN-ts of marked intei'est. Tile ('liiiloiiia. popularly called al[uiie Iteauly. begins in the forest area, and continues up to the lowei- meadows. This may be known by its pure white blossoms and blue herries. Its lea\-es are oIiIoiil; in tufts of fi-om two to four. They spi-iiru' up iieai- the roots. The other is xerophylliim. mountain lily, some- times calle(l sipiaw u'rass. because it is used by the Indians in basket making. This lias tall stems with small fraiirant thiwers and coarse grass-like leaves.

The writer has a list of about three hnndreil and sixty species from the -Mountain. It includes only llowering plants and ferns. There are uuu'e than twenty 1yi)e species named fi'om the .Mountain, not a U'W of whi<di are found nowhei-e I'lse. Its ueoui-aphic.d ])osition makes it the boundary between the arctic i)lants fi-om the Xorlh and the plants of Oregon and California from the South. Its great altitude has a wonderful effect on plant life. A good example of this is seen upon the trees at timber line, where twenty feet or more of snow rests upon therii for many lunnths. Their prostrate trunks and gnarled branches give ample testimony to their extreme struggle for existence. The prevailing wind on the high ridges gives direction to their

.Avalanche Lilies (Erythroiiium montaiiuiu) torcintt iheir «,iy throuuli

the snow.

ei':^Qe;o7

100

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

Copyright. 190i:i. by Asahel Curtis Moraine Park, Sluiskin MuuiUalns and Mystic Lake.

trunks and l)i'anche.s. The latter hang from the leeward side, giving the trees a one-sided ajipearance. Where the ordinary plants cease to exist the snoAvy protoeoecus holds undisputed sway on the extensive snow fields. This is a small one-celled microscopic plant having a blood red color in one stage of its existence. Tourists often wonder what animal has been killed on the snow. On some snow fields and glaciers, it is found associated with a small black angle-worm. The writer has wondered whether the plant furnished food to this little black wiggier in his inhospitable home.

Plant life, on the JNIountain. as is well known, does not stop at the snow line. Even in the crater, on the warm rocks of the rim, will be found three or four mosses — I have noted one there which is not found anywhere else — several lichens, and at least one liverwort.

Canada Dogwood (Cornus canadensis)

Glacial Debris on lower part of Winthrop Glacier, with Sluiskin Mountains beyond.

V.

THE CLIMBERS

Climb the mountains, and get their good tidings. .\ature"s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. — John ;Muir.

GTVf]X u'cKid muscles and wind, the other requisites for an ascent of the Mountain are a competent guide and grit. It offers few problems like those confronting the climber of the older and more crag-like Alps. There are no perpendicular cliff's to scale, no abysses to .swing across on a rope.

\'iew of Paradise Valley from Pinnacle Peak, with South-side Route to the Summit. The route starts at Reese's

Camp, crosses the snow-fields abose .Nisqually Glacier, follows the Cowlitz Cleaver nearly to Gibraltar, then

turns east to avoid cre\asses, passes Gibraltar from East to West, climbs the "Chute" on its West

side, and then makes the straightest line the crevasses will permit for Crater Peak.

Tllh: CI.I.MHKRS

103

II Veil c.-lll sl;ill(| ihr I ilim>llll|r|il < 1 1' ;| Idll'J'. slf;i(|\. Ilp-llill |i||ll. i<\rv tile ice :|||(| loiiSC

rocks. \(iu iii;iy s.ii'cjy jdiii ;i p.irly Idr llic Miiiiinil. I'>iil (Id Mill li-\- it willidiit L'liidcs. Till' r.il.il I'lnl df ( ';ill;p^li;iii :iii(| Slc\cils,

III l'tl)!l. slidiild jdiiL: scf\i- ;is ;i \\;i ni illL'' ;i'_:;i iiisl Inisliiiu Id cxiicrii'iicf dii dllicr iiidiiiil ;i ins. N'd such wilderness df crevjisscs ,ilid sliil'till'.; siidW sldpes slididd lie ;ill;nd<ed s;i\-e ill cdin|i;iny with thdse who know its lr;iils.

ir diic is udinu llie |Mijiid;ir fdiite, ;ind is e((ii;il td sd ldii'_; ;ind iinlirdkeii ;i idiiiili. In- iii;iy sl;ir1 I'l'diii ('.•iiiip df the ( 'jdiids ;it d;iw"n. ;iiid re;ich the id|i hel'dre ijddn. l>iit |i;irties iVeilUellt l> Lid ll|i ('dwlitz ('|e;iver in the ('\'eniiiL;. ;inil spend the iiiuht ;it (';iiiip .Miiir. ;i ledei' heldW" ( I i I )r;i 1 1 ;ir. ininied t'l-din the fjinidiis iiidiin1;iin cliiidtef. .Idhn .Mnir. ;ind drfei-iiiL: tidlie dl' llie ;i ccdi n 1 1 1 dd;! t i dll s df ;i ■■cjiiiip" s;i\c ;i wiiiddi!'e;i k. 'I'lie iiii|»di-t;int

i-,,|,.vni;ln. I'.ilu. f. K. (ult.r 1 h i 11 l:' js lo pJISS ( J i 1 1 fJI 1 1 JIT iMl'lv. Ilid'dfe the

i he Oldest and the Youngest of the Climbers, j > ^i i i i i- ■ • i i

Gen. Hazard Stevens and Jesse McRae. ' ^'l" ^till'ls the dailv shdWer n\ Iclck'S illld

General Stevens, with P. B. Van Trump, in rd(d<S I'l'dlll tile elilT dNCr tile tl'Jiil. 'I'llis is

1870, made the tirst ascent ot the Mountain.

In \W^. he came west from his home in Bos- MM' 111 d S 1

ton and ioined the Ma/.amas in their climh. ( I I'l 1 1 < 'C |' ( )ns

I he picture shows him before his tent in

Paradise Park. Me was then 6.^ years old. pnlllt. I Hit

no lives have cvei' hecii lost here. I^'ery where, of course, caiitidii is needed. ( )\-ercd!ilideiice may prove as costl\ as it did to I'rof. i^dizar Mc'Clure. of tile I 'iii\ crsity of ()reL;(»ii. who. in 1S!)7. was killed while desci'iidiiiL;' I'roiii ( 'amp Miiir after dark.

The cast - side route in\dl\cs less daiiecr. perhaps, hut is a loiiuci' climli ovei- the ice. It has been less used because it is farther Iimuii Paradise \'alley. Startinji" from a iiii;lit"s eii- canipment on the Wed^e. jiarties usually vf- 'piire lialf a day to reacdi the summit.

The (Til)raltar route has been the popular one ev(M- since ( leii. Hazard Ste\-ens and P. 1*>.

Van Truiii]). on duly 17. KS7U. used it in the ■ite.j*

tirst successful ascent of the Mountain. Kach , . ,. .^ , ., ^ c

. 1 • 1 '' '*-^a" Trump, who. \Mth Gen. Stevens,

01 these piOlieel'S on the summit has ])Ubllshed made the first ascent in 1S70.

rill. to by I^ea Bronson < 'nin ripht. irt09, by P. V. Caesar

Axalanch-.- falling on \\'il!is Wall, at head of the (Srcat Aniphithfater of Carbon Glacier. The Cliff here, up to the Snow Cap

\ isible on the Summit, is more than 4,000 feet high and nearly perpendicular. Avalanches fall every day,

but this picture of a big one in action is probably unique in Mountain Photography.

106

THE .MOrXTAIX THAT WAS ■'GOD"

I-*'	1	. /
-<1		V	^	^^^^ .^ft^^^^^^i
		^-^	.^^	^^^^H
1 ^	ittk		|F^	^^^1

East Side of the Mountain, from the Wedge, showing Route to the Summit over the great White Glacier.

This is the easiest and safest of all the routes.

;i noteworthy account of how they uot there. General Stevens in the Atlantic ^Monthly for November, 1876, and Mr. Van Trump in the second volume of ^lazama. A month after their ascent, they were followed over the same route by Messrs. Emmons and Wilson of the Geological Survey.

Thirteen years before, in 1857, Lieutenant (later General) A. V. Kautz, with several companions, liad made the first attempt to scale the peak of which we have any record. He climbed up the arete, or spine, between the glacier now named for him and the Niscjually glacier, but turned back on the approach of night, when probably within a thousand feet of the sum- mit. Ilis route has since been fol-

Lateral Moraine of Carbon Glacier. Mountaineers building l«>^Ved SUCCCSsfully to thc tOp by

Trail. Many such Trails have been built, and more SCVCral particS, tllC first, IbelicVC, are under construction. Without them the . <> a i n\^ ^

"Tenderfoot" would fare badly indeed. U^\\\g that of McSSrS. GlaSCOCk

THK CIJ.MI'.KRS

107

MiHiMliiiiifi'is' (>amp. MoiaiiiL- l'a:k. ()\ ci li)i)kiiiR huad uf (Jarhmi Glacier.

;lll(| Dudley (if lllr SirlT.I Cllll). nf S;ill l-'l'.l llciscd. in IIM).'). 'I'll,. WllitC fjlaciei*

roiiti' \v;is licst used in 1 ss."). In ]S!ll Mr. \';iii Ti'uiiip i'c;iclic(l the Niiiiiiiiit over llic rid^'c dixidiiiLi' ihc 'I' ;i li n in ii >i'I<i('icrs. The lifst woninn tn in;d<i' tT^ the ascent w;i.s Miss F;iy i-'niliM-. n\' f^ JP \ Tnponin. in 1S!1(I. ' "

The norlli ;ind iioi'l liwcst sides. ;is 1 li;i \c s;iid. ;ii'e ;is \ i'\ nnei in(| nefi'd. Soilie niendiefs (if the M on I1 1 ;i i 1 leel's "

Cluli inive ,1 tlieorv tli;i1 the sniiiiiiil oaii ))»' re;ielied rroiii A \;il;inclie Caiii|) l)y (diinliiiiL; ;il(>iii;' llie I'nce id' llie (dilV kiiiiwii ;is lJiiss(dl IN'iik. and so ai'iMind 1(1 tile iippci- siidw held id' "Wild llTdp Lllaeiel". They lia\'e seen iiKUint aiii Lioats iiwik'iiiL;' the triji. and propose to 1 I'y it t hellisehcs. Whether

they siu-ceed or not. liiis trail will never be popnhir. owiiii^ to the laiid- .slides caused l»y the dnily elili ;iiid

tJoW" of frost in the loose roidc of

which the cJilT is Iniill .

Til recount iiiL: the famous ascents of the .Moiiiiljiiti. ;i word is due to the work of three well-known (diihs of jilpinists. the M;i/;inias. (d' I'ort- laiid : the Sierra Clul). of (';diforiii;i. and tin- Mountaineers, a later organi- zation, havino- its head(|uarters in Seattle ,-111(1 I'rol'. |-:. S. Meniiy of the

University id' Washington as its en- Serracs. or Icc I'lnnadcs. Carb.,,. Glacier.

c

c -^

c 3:

^ 1

. a.

^^ <

K ^

■5

■3 ^

C = a _

c

z

o o

110

THE MOUXTAIX THAT WAS "GOD"

thusiastie president. The ^Nlazamas have made two ascents, with lar^c parties, and each of the other clubs has made one. Many members of the Appalachian Club and of Euro- pean organizations of similar pur- pose have climbed to Crater Peak, either in company with the West- ern clubs named, or in smaller parties.

All of these clubs have done much to make the ^Mountain better known. Each of the Coast socie- ties publishes a periodical. The numbers of these publications de- scribing the ascents by the clubs are of scientific value as well as popular interest.

An excellent, though incomplete, bibliography, prepared by Miss Mary Banks, may be found in the Mountaineer for November, 1909. It covers the important scientific publications on the Mountain thor- oughly, and cites a large number of magazine articles. The list of publications hitherto wholly de- voted to the subject is a very brief one. the chief titles, outside of books of pictures alone, being James Wickersham's pamphlet on the name ("Is it 'Mt. Tacoma' or 'Kainier,' " Tacoma. 1893), Oliii D. Wheeler's "Climbing Mt. Kainier." St. Paul. 1901. and Fred G. Plummer's "Illustrated Guide Book to Mt. Tacoma," Tacoma, no date.

I close this brief essay with ex- pert testimony. In 1883, Prof. Zit- tel. the German scientist, and Prof. James Bryce, long president of the British Alpine Club, author of "The American Commonwealth," and now British ambassr.dor to the United States, explored our great

Copyright, 1909, by Asahel Curtis Spray Falls, a splendid scenic feature of the North Side, where it drops more than five hundred feet from the Spray Park table-land intci the Canyon of North Mowich Glacier.

THK ("UMHRRS

111

' ■M'yiiKht. UilO, liy «'. E. Culler

Till.- MiMiiitalii. as seen from a hi«h ridttc in the (cascades near Green River Mol Springs, sliovvinK the North and Hast faces of the Peak.

I)i';il<. Lntrf. tlii'sc l';iimiiis inoiiiil niii climlx'i's uiiiird in piihlisliiiiL;' ;i iinic tm tlit'ir iiiiprt'ssions. Tlicy .saitl. in part:

The scenery is of rare and varied beauty. Tlie peak itself is as noble a mountain as we have ever seen, in its lines and structure. The glaciers which descend from its snow fields present all the characteristic features of those in the Ali)s. and thou.^li less extensive than the ice streams of the Mount Blanc or Monla Rosa groui)s, are in their crevasses and serracs equally striking and equally worthy of close study.

We have nothing more beautiful in Switzerland or Tyrol, in Norway or in the Pyrenees, than the Carbon river glaciers and the great Puyallup glaciers. Indeed, the ice in the latter is unusually pur(>. and the crevasses are unusually fine. The com- bination of ice scenery with woodland scenery of the grandest type is to be found nowhere in the Old World, unless it be in the Himalayas, and, so far as we know, nowliere else on the American continent.

Returning from the Summit. I he Mountaineers ending a memorable outing in 1905. W inthrop Glacier

in foreground. Sluiskin Mountains in distance.

\J e*r fi"' :si r\ -V

f?^^^

MAP OF

PUGET SOUND COUNTRY

AND ROADSTO

MT RAINIER - TACOMA

- r>. , ,' "'.{::: N AT IqWa i. I,. pA b »<^

livN^^;

^'Ill>. .0)1 II.,

tte ^rMfteoY <"• •^S'frra.^

-. , ^astle

I I

^

^

fSOOO^

,„, oi

«>Oo>

■■j'')lj'''>'

■^<>t><

:^55^<>

-.^1

Map of RAINIER NATIONAL PARK

Compiled by EUGENE RICKSECKER, U. S. Assistant Engineer

- 47'00

•3 50

SCALE OF Ml LE.3

ffOADS

«7o

£ NEW "YORK

46

» ."■ .'.

•W

...,:.C^t'

'C ■ - ■

■'<■ •i

I

a: t ^ ^ .,

. ■ ' ,■>»■,-

^- '■>■''/'-'■

. ■' V ^ ■ *■

■' • '. • j ■■,

•^. f < " ' '■ ■ ■■>,■■ -

\

■W^

'T'l'-^Ay

W'^^

fe>;

^•^r

	m-
	il.

;;(«

\

.^ . -..L^' ;t..'U..^. i-iini>Ma f ii^t '■fm ^.*„

M^ m..¥i

W ]

^"^t

ml

.^^^

te^ fer I* J

W.J.

iit..#^iifeL.^

''*.,^'^- ^^ j

# 1^

P; r i

i^'i';-* i^

t: I" f ■• f

i^-' i i ^- _fe

ifv I

m.m.».M

Ir %:te fe 1;

li'Si^MS-.

«!*" a> -«B.,r' ••%*. ,«■*■ i%-H

I'tt: /i^,

IICOlC*

u 'H S'

r«
' 1 ! 1	s
■ H ^1

'^^^•''C-

^■rs- i^ ft;

^•^ "t^r

i't:!»^^S^

^TwTW^' BMh.U-^- *''#J-

*r w ■ m

P,^n^^^t . ; ^ L .. ft

cin

.^^ 1

>£•:^ iSt. laMt lA i 'VSi few.-

Ci^i^^' ^^